Before Getting Started
It’s my position
that before you begin making sausages at home, you educate yourself about
matters of health and safety. Realize that by the time meat reaches
the butcher counter, it has gathered a number of different kinds of bacteria
just from handling. Some of these bacteria can cause severe gastrointestinal
consequences. Common bacteria like E. coli, Listeria sp. Salmonella sp. can
be easily transferred to the meat. You must learn how to discourage the
growth of harmful organisms in the ground meats you use for sausage making.
I found guidelines for the treatment of pork and pork products with regards
to health on the both USDA and Canadian Food Inspection Agency websites (see
links) to be very helpful. Always be careful to
prevent any further contamination and to always keep the temperature of the
meat low enough to discourage further bacterial growth. Keep the meat
refrigerated until its ready to be ground, and return it immediately to the
refrigerator as soon as possible.
Cleanliness is a major factor
in preventing food borne illness. Everything that touches food should be
clean. Kep the following steps in mind to help prevent food borne illness by
safely handling food in your home. You should wash your hands before and
after handling meat (especially uncooked raw meat, poultry, or fish and
their juices). Wash your hands (gloved or not) with warm, soapy water for 20
seconds with warm, soapy water. If your hands have any kind of skin abrasion
or infection, always use clean disposable gloves. and don't forget to was up
after blowing your nose, coughing, or sneezing.
Thoroughly wash all surfaces that come in contact with raw meat,
poultry, and fish with hot, soapy water, before moving on to sausage
preparation. Use paper towels to clean kitchen surfaces. If you use
dishcloths, wash them often in the hot cycle of your washing machine. Keep
other surfaces, such as faucets and counter tops, clean by washing with hot,
soapy water. To keep your knives and cutting boards clean, wash them in hot,
soapy water after each use; then rinse and air or pat dry with clean paper
towels. Cutting boards can be sanitized with a solution of 1 tablespoon of
unscented, liquid chlorine bleach per gallon of water. Flood the surface
with the bleach solution and allow it to stand for several minutes; then
rinse and air or pat dry with clean paper towels. Non-porous acrylic,
plastic, glass, and solid wood boards can be washed in a dishwasher
(laminated boards may crack and split). Even plastic boards wear out over
time. Once cutting boards become excessively worn or develop hard-to-clean
grooves, replace them.
Keep raw meat, poultry, fish, and their juices away from other food. After
cutting raw meats, wash hands, cutting board, knife, and countertops with
hot, soapy water. Be Smart. Keep Foods Apart. Don't Cross-Contaminate Raw or
cooked meat, poultry or egg products, as any perishable foods, must be kept
at a safe temperature during "the big thaw." They are safe indefinitely
while frozen. However, as soon as they begin to thaw and become warmer than
40 °F, bacteria that may have been present before freezing can begin to
multiply. Perishable foods should never be thawed on the counter, or in hot
water and must not be left at room temperature for more than two hours. Even
though the center of the package may still be frozen as it thaws on the
counter, the outer layer of the food could be in the "Danger Zone," between
40 and 140 °F — temperatures where bacteria multiply rapidly.
Learn about the safe way to defrost food: in the refrigerator, or, in
cold water.
Refrigerator Thawing
--- When thawing frozen food, it's
best to plan ahead and thaw in the refrigerator where it will remain at a
safe, constant temperature — at 40 °F or below. Planning ahead is the key to
this method because of the lengthy time involved. A large frozen item like a
pork shoulder requires at least a day (24 hours) for every 5 pounds of
weight. Even small amounts of frozen food — such as a pound of ground meat
or boneless chicken breasts — require a full day to thaw.
Cold Water Thawing
---
This method is faster than refrigerator thawing but requires more attention.
The food must be in a leak-proof package or plastic bag. If the bag leaks,
bacteria from the water, air or surrounding environment could be introduced
into the food. Also, the meat tissue may absorb water, resulting in a watery
product.
The bag should be submerged in cold tap water, changing the water every 30
minutes so it continues to thaw. Small packages of meat, poultry or seafood
— about a pound — may thaw in an hour or less. A 3-to 4-pound package may
take 2 to 3 hours.
Record copious
notes of your procedure, changes in formula, cooking method, temperature,
etc.
Before you begin any
sausage making endeavor:
- Educate yourself concerning health
risks, ingredients, limitations, and food technology as they relate to
your use of the formulations (recipes) that appear here as they pertain
to your personal production of the sausages your are making.
- Obtain a notebook
and begin recording everything you do while preparing the recipe:
materials, grinding the meats, mixing the spices, etc. Record times,
temperatures and humidity where appropriate. Don’t rely on mental
notes, jot important information down...it will be valuable for
troubleshooting cases where you are dissatisfied with the product.
- Read the entire
procedure through, making sure you understand all the nuances of
grinding, curing, spicing, etc. and have all the necessary materials at
hand.
- Assemble and
scrupulously clean all equipment you will be using. (don’t rely on
the cleanliness of stored equipment and utensils.)
- Use latex gloves
when handling meats and mixing in cures and spices.
- Keep all
perishables refrigerated whenever possible through out the procedure.
- Follow the meat
preparation, curing spicing, cooking and/or drying times and
temperatures precisely. Don’t make substitutions unless you completely
understand the effects of the substitution...for example, saltpeter is
NOT a substitute for cure #1 or Cure #2.
Meats used in Sausage Making
A number of different kinds of
meat are suitable for sausage. But the most common are the United States are
pork, beef and poultry. Mutton and lamb may also be used.
Hunters will often include game meats in their sausages, like venison, elk,
antelope, duck, goose and pheasant. My suggestion for game meats, however,
would be to substitute pork fat for the “wild” fat, where dietary and
religious regulations permit. Fat is necessary for both taste and
texture in sausage; if you want to leave out the fat, forget making sausage
and make a meat loaf and substitute bread for the fat! How much fat? That
varies, some sausages are made with a total fat content of 20%; others up to
50%. If sausage contains more than 50% fat, you must call it
“imitation” sausage.
The shoulder is a good and
economical choice for both pork and beef sausages; Pork shoulder is often
marketed commercially as “Boston Butt or Pork Shoulder Butt”, while beef
shoulder is called “Chuck”. The desirable fat to use in sausages is
the hard fat that comes from above the shoulder, that over the loin (back
fat) or the belly around the ribs (bacon). Today's primal cut pork shoulders
contain about 20% fat!
Prepare the meats for sausage by
removing any bones. Next, look for and remove any glandular
meat between the muscle bundles—it will have a quite different
texture and color than the muscle meat and give a bitter taste to your
sausage. Trim away all silver skin (connective tissues: tough, thin shiny
sheets) and any tendons (tough, dense white fibrous sheets). Remove any
visible blood vessels, also. Save any small pieces of edible meat and
fat from this trimming, but don’t mix it in with the “regular” meat you just
trimmed….grind it separately. The picture on the right shows me boning out a
pork shoulder butt.
The picture on the left shows
Glenn, my “sausage-making buddy”, grinding up some pork shoulder. Once you
start making and sharing sausages, you'll find that there are other people
who make sausages or want to learn. Although sausage making can be an
individual thing, its much more fun when you have a buddy who also loves
sausages! You'll practice with spicing and types of meats, the size of
grind, etc. You may make a formula that would be a sure winner in a
sausage-making contest!
We buy the pork in vacuum sealed
bags...they come two “butts” to the bag and weigh in at a total of about
15-18 pounds (or 7-8 kilograms) Some of you will be lucky enough to
raise your own pork, I’m jealous!
In my recipes, I often use the
terms 95/5, 80/20 and 50/50. The first number refers to the lean
portion of the meat and the second number refers to the fat portion. Back
fat is 100% fat!
Types of
Sausage:
FRESH SAUSAGE: I think of
fresh sausage as a sort of "meatloaf" in a casing.
Anyone that can make a “meat-loaf” can make fresh sausage!
My definition of a fresh
sausage is one in which NO curing is required in making the sausage.
Fresh sausage is made of raw meat, salt, and seasonings and
always is cooked before eating.
The amount of salt present in fresh sausage formulations is not necessarily
sufficient to cure the meat. Because the meat is not cured, it must be kept
under refrigeration. They usually take the form of links or patties. Fresh
sausages are very perishable and should be used within several days of their
being made...or else they should be frozen. In my opinion, the beginning
home sausage maker should gain extensive experience with making fresh
sausage, before attempting to make cured sausage. They are not difficult to make. There are a few simple procedures
to follow and precautions to observe, however.
A very
simple general formulation for any fresh sausage is:
Meat |
= 80% |
Fat |
= 20% |
Water |
= 2.5% |
Salt |
= 1.5% |
Flavorings |
= 0.75% |
|
It is helpful to write your formulations as percentages
because they can easily be converted to weights in the Metric system.
The American and Imperial measurement are difficult to use in the small
quantities used for home sausage formulations. Try this in your head: If you
have 2¼ lb. of meat, how many ounces of salt would you need to yield a 1½%
concentration of salt? Compare that with the ease of using the metric
system. [see below]
As you develop your own particular formula, you will want to
experiment with small batches of sausage. I recommend making one kilogram
batches (1,000g or about 2¼ lb.) This mass will give you enough bulk to
thoroughly mix the ingredients and get an even blend. Taking the above
formula recommendation, multiplying the percentages by a factor of 10 (Yuk —
math!) will give you:
Meat = 80% times 10 g Meat = 800 grams
Fat = 20% times 10 g Fat = 200 grams
1000 grams = 1 Kg (about 2.2 lb.)
Salt = 1.5% times 10 g Salt = 15 grams
Flavorings = 1% times 10 g Flavorings= 10 grams
Water = 2.5% times 10 g Water = 25 grams
1050 grams = 1.05 Kg (about 2.3 lb.) |
|
Now you know why your 8th grade teacher stressed
learning multiplication and decimals…wait until we get to biology, chemistry
and physics…and you thought you’d never need to know them!
Let’s examine each ingredient in the general formula of fresh sausage:
Meat: While pork
is the most common meat for sausage making almost any species can be
used. Sausages can made from beef, lamb, domestic and wild poultry, game
meats like deer, elk, antelope, and even fish! In handling home
butchered meats and game you must take precautions to remove all fur or
feathers and keep them from contacting the meat. The animal should be
skinned and the carcass washed to lessen the contamination of bacteria
that can cause food-borne illness, such as E. coli and Salmonella. When
preparing the meat for sausage, trim the meat of all visible fat and cut
it into chunks about 2-inches each. This will facilitate the proper
ratio when building up your formula. [Note: If using store-purchased
meat cuts, avoid buying ground meats. While deep muscle is sterile, the
surface can become contaminated by handling and store grinding. Also
storage greatly increases the chances for bacterial growth. All meat
used for sausage making should be kept under 40oF (4oC).
Remember the phrase “…life begins at 40”.]
Fat: If you
want a low fat product, don’t make sausage! Without 20% or more fat, the
sausage will have a dry, mealy taste and mouth-feel. Sure there are
“fat-replacers” available, but I thought you wanted to make a pure,
healthy product with no extraneous additives! A number of animal fats
can be used. Generally the fat is pork, but beef, lamb, poultry fat and
poultry skin is often used. The one exception is game fat, which
as a very strong wild flavor. The large animal fats can be sorted into
three major categories: sub-cutaneous fat, intra-muscular fat, and organ fat. Sausage makers prefer
to use “fat back”, the hard sub-cutaneous fat under the skin. A good
substitute is uncured and un-salted belly [bacon]. Avoid the soft
and sinewy intra-muscular fat; it produces a poor quality sausage that
contains “stringy” particles that love to lodge between your teeth!
Organ fat, though good quality is almost impossible to get retail.
Prepare that fat as you did the meat, keeping it under 40oF
(4oC); this will insure a good fat definition and avoid
smearing!
Salt: In
fresh sausage, the percentage of salt is not critical since fresh
sausage is not cured. It’s there for seasoning purposes. I personally
believe than 1½% would be the maximum amount of salt. One thing to
remember is to always weigh the salt. Kosher, pickling, sea and
table salt all have different densities and it is quite easy to over
salt using volume measurements! Note: Some people add a sodium nitrite
curing salt to a fresh sausage to give the meat reddish color. In fresh
sausages this is optional; but nitrite is essential in cooked,
smoked, and dry-cured sausages!
For health reasons, never use more
that 0.25% nitrIte cure in any sausage!
FLAVORINGS:
The most common are pepper, garlic, sugar, chili pepper, parsley, onion,
ginger, coriander, cumin, mace, and sage. But you are only limited by
your imagination. You can use fresh seasonings and spices or dried. If
using dried, remember some are more intense than the fresh variety of
the same seasoning. Toasting dried spices also enhances their flavor.
Alter the kinds and amounts of seasonings to suit your taste, but
beginners remember…too little is better than too much! Keep notes!
WATER:
Water is useful in dissolving the salt and flavoring components so that
they can be distribute evenly through the meat/fat mixture. Make a
slurry of these to add to the meat mixture. As you gain experience, you
might want to substitute wine for water…remember, you are in charge!
PREPARATION OF THE SAUSAGE:
I personally prefer the two stage grinding method. I cut the meat in
chunks large enough to fit in the grinder throat and then grind them
through a coarse plate [3/8-inch or 10-mm]. Next I add the remaining
ingredients to the coarse ground meat and re-grind through a small plate
[1/4-inch or 4.5-mm]. This method produces a sausage mix of equal size
particles and well distributed flavors. This is where you will want to
experiment. Different ratios of meat to fat and different flavorings
will affect the final product. Make accurate measurements and keep
notes and so you can duplicate the formula!
STUFFING:
Stuffing the sausage in a casing is more esthetic than necessary. They
taste the same. True, a sausage is easier to handle, grill, and cook,
etc. when in a link. The most common casings are hog intestines and the
come in a variety of sizes. The suppliers listed on my “Resources”
page have an excellent selection. Generally fresh sausages are twisted
off into 5-inch links; but some prefer the “horseshoe” shaped ring.
STORAGE:
Fresh sausage has a very short shelf-life. It must be kept refrigerated
and used within 5 days. It can be wrapped and frozen for up to a month
or vacuum packed [e.g. Food Saver©] and frozen for about 3 months.
COOKED SAUSAGE:
Cooked sausages require the application of some sort of cure and
heat as part of the formulation and preparation, such as oven-cooking,
poaching, steaming, etc. Cooking causes the denaturation and
coagulation of proteins in the sausage which allows it to maintain its
shape. Smoke may or may not be a necessary part of the preparation.
Generally these sausages may be
eaten without further heating, as in the case of luncheon meats like
bologna, mortadella, and cooked salami. Some like Kielbasa, hotdogs, hot
links, etc. are re-heated before serving. Luncheon meats and hot dogs
are a type of cooked sausage often referred to as emulsion sausages where
the meat paste is so finely chopped that no individual particles of meat can
be seen in the sausage matrix. In order to understand how these sausages are
made, some background information on the nature of meat and proteins is
essential.
What is meat?
Meat is composed of fat, nerve,
tendon, ligaments, sinew and muscle fibers. The muscle fibers, in turn
contain proteins some which are soluble and some that are not. The major
components of muscle protein are actinomyosin and myoglobin (myoglobin is
the red pigment in meat and actinomyosin composes the contractile fibers of
the meat).
Proteins are made up of long
chains of smaller molecules called amino acids. Folds in the amino acid
chain produce the shape of the protein and it’s that specific shape that
determines the protein’s chemical and biological properties. In living
tissue, the function of a protein is dependent on this three-dimensional
structure. Changes in the protein’s environment will disrupt this structure
causing the protein to become “denatured”. This causes the complex folds and
twists in the 3-D structure to break and become linear. These changes can
affect their affinity for water and their solubility. Such environmental
changes can cause by:
-
changes in salt concentration
alters interactions between amino acids that compose
the protein
-
changes in
pH alters interactions between amino acids that compose
the protein
-
breaking the Sulfur-to-Sulfur
bonds that cross-link the amino acids
-
changes in temperature
-
water binding properties.
EMULSIONS:
An sausage emulsion results
is a homogeneous mechanical mixture that results from
meat that is ground so finely
that it encapsulates the fat. These encapsulated droplets are then dispersed
in liquid, in sausage this is generally ice water
Emulsion formation: During the
formation of a meat emulsion, meat proteins are extracted from the meat
muscle and are solubilized [or dissolved] in water. Once the protein is
dissolved additional mixing forces the dissolved proteins to disperse
around and coat fat particles that are present in the meat solution.
An invaluable aid in extracting soluble proteins is salt. The muscle
fibers of the meat contain salt-soluble and heat coagulable proteins,
abbreviated SSHCP. [Note: the amount of water added usually varies with
the formulation from 10% to 35%.]
The extraction of SSHCP is
enhanced by the addition of “sausage-makers” phosphate (e.g. Tri- and
tetra-sodium pyrophosphates). Research has shown that the phosphates
increase protein solubility by altering the pH and salt has a positive
effect on the water-holding capacity of the emulsion by solubilizing the
actinomyosin into actin and myosin. Without added phosphates, long
processing times would result in an unstable emulsion. The Food Safety and
Inspection Service allows for the addition of a 1% solution of sodium
phosphates.
As the protein solubilizes it
coats the fat globules and water droplets in meat paste by wrapping them
in a protein envelope. These globules are evenly dispersed and during the
cooking process the protein looses is biological structure [this is
termed: “denatures”] and coagulates forming a gel around the protein
coated-fat and water particles. This process stabilizes the matrix of fat
and protein forming an emulsion. The process of emulsion formation occurs
in two phases, described below.
Preparation of the Ingredients:
Hard fat and/or fat trimmings
should be free of any soft tissue or sinew. Chill the fat to 34oF
and cut the fat into chunks that will fit easily in the grinder throat.
Grind the fat through a 6.5-mm or ¼-plate. Make sure that the knife blade
is sharp and firmly against the grinder plate. The cut should appear
“clean” and not smeared! If so, check temperature, product purity, blade
sharpness, etc.
The meat should be at
approximately 34oF. Trim the meat so that it contains no more
than 10% fat. Remove all sinew, ligament and connective tissue to
produce a very high quality product. Cut into chunks as you did with the
fat, but grind the meat separately from the fat, through a 4-mm or fine
plate.
Depending on the product
being produced, additional filler products such as tripe, soy protein,
pre-emulsion, etc. may be added. Check your formulation for proper amounts
and preparation of these items and when they should be added to the
matrix.
Phase I:
Mix the ground meat (not
fat) with the salt, cure, phosphates and cure accelerators [such as GDL,
erythorbate or ascorbate], if any. Also at this time mix in
approximately one-half of the water required in the formulation and
process in a cutter or food processor until the temperature of the chop
reaches 43oF. The amount of time is
dependent on the speed of chop, size of batch, etc. Use an infra-red
thermometer to determine the end point.
Phase II:
Add ground fat, the
seasonings, spices, and remaining ingredients to the batter along with
the remaining water and chop or process until the batch reaches 57oF. 18oC
These steps are important.
The first chopping with water and salts results in the extraction and
solubilization of SSHCP so necessary for forming a stable emulsion. As the
mixing continues in the second chop, the remaining water and flavorings are
absorbed by the meat emulsion, contributing to its taste, moisture and
“mouth-feel”
As in the case of making
fresh sausages it is extremely important to maintain your raw materials at a
temperature of 400F. Failure to do so can encourage the
growth of bacteria that lead to illness or spoilage. It is important to
remember that bacteria grow best between 400F to 1400F. When cooking sausages, make
sure they pass through this range quickly. For safety reasons, I
recommend the use of a nitrite cure in all cooked sausages to help control
spore forming bacteria and provide pleasant color retention of the product.
The cooked sausage must attain a final internal temperature of 155-1600F in order to kill any pathogenic
bacteria.
COOKING METHODS
There are two main cooking
methods employed in sausage making that can easily be used by the hobbyist
sausage maker:
Dry-heat and moist-heat. However nothing is really that
simple. Often both kinds of cooking are used on a particular sausage.
Dry-heating can also include the application of smoke to flavor and color
the sausage.
Generally cooked sausages
are prepared in a “Cook House” or smoker. There are a number commercial
smokers are available to the sausage hobbyist. They can be purchased in many
home-improvement centers, sporting goods catalogs, or barbeque stores.
However a homemade smoker can be easily constructed from an old
refrigerator, freezer or even made of plywood. If you make one out of an old
refrigerator make sure it is lined with metal, not plastic. The basic
construction consists of a metal box, a heat source [such as an electric hot
plate] and a pan for hardwood chips or sawdust. Drill some vents at the top
and bottom for draft controls to allow you to regulate the temperature and
smoke.
When using sawdust or wood
chips as the smoke source spritz them with water and place them in a pan on
the hot plate so that they smolder and produce smoke. If you are smoking in
a barbecue grill or kettle unit, keep the hot coals to one side of the grill
and regulate the heat by adjusting the vents. Sprinkle damp sawdust or wood
chips over the briquettes to produce the smoke. An excellent reference for
constructing smokers is “Meat Smoking and Smokehouse Design” by S.,
A., & R. Marianski [see my resource page].
Dry-heat cooking
involves the application of heat
from an oven or smoker that completely surrounds the sausage. By adjusting
openings (dampers) on the oven, the amount of relative humidity can be
somewhat controlled to a value of 40 to 70% R/H.
When cooking sausages in a
smoker, the temperature range should be between 1700F to 1800F. It is desirable to have a high
degree of humidity in the smoker when cooking sausages. This can be
accomplished by keep a pan of hot water in the smoker during cooking. This
keeps the surface from drying out which allows excess internal moisture to
easily escape. An ideal relative humidity for many types of cooked sausage
is about 45%; others may require as much as 70% humidity. There are a
number of humidity gauges available on the market. You’ll have to
experiment with your particular cooker to see how to maintain these
percentages. Phosphates are often added to formulations of sausages to be
cooked by the dry-heat method in order to prevent and excessive lose of
moisture that would produce a dry, mealy product.
Moist Heat Cooking:
This method uses hot water or, in
the case of commercial producers, steam. If product is being cooked in
water, the water temperature should be in the range of 160-1700F. In this case the Sausage is
immersed in hot water which completely surrounds the sausage or loaf to
assure even cooking. Obviously it’s necessary to stuff the sausages in
water-proof casings or in the case of some loaves, a mold with a
water-tight, pressure lid. They should pass from 400F to 1600F as quickly as possible to
minimized bacterial growth. The following internal temperature
combinations are the minimum required holding times to insure that
pathogenic bacteria are killed: 1450F for 10 minutes then raise to 1500F for at least 3 minutes and
finally 1550F for at least 1 minute. Another
reason is to quickly heat and coagulate the proteins and to prevent
rupturing the casing. If higher temperatures are used there is a danger of
driving off water to quickly or melting the fat which results in an
increase in internal pressure causing the casing to burst.
Cooling:
Regardless of the method of
cooking, sausages must be adequately cooled after cooking. The high heat
used in cooking will destroy all actively growing bacterial cells, BUT a
few disease causing bacteria can form spores (think “seeds”) which will
not be destroyed in the cooking process. If the sausage is allowed to cool
slowly, there is a possibility that some of these spores will develop into
active living and growing bacteria! Plunge the sausage in ice cold water
to rapidly cool the meat to about 1000F.
Once cooled, these sausages must be kept under
refrigeration because they are perishable.
Generalized Cooked Sausage Formulation:
Cooked sausages can be made in the form of
links, rings, rolls, or loaves. A general formulation for a cooked sausage is very similar
to that of a fresh sausage, but with some important additions. The most
important difference is that ingredients include nitrite cure and often some
sort of binding agent [Some examples are phosphates, non-fat dry milk, and
soy protein].
Meat |
= |
70 to 80% |
Fat |
= |
20 to 30% |
Water |
= |
1.0% to 10% |
Salt |
= |
1.5% to 2% |
Flavorings
|
= |
0.75% to 2% |
Nitrite |
= |
156 PPM |
Let’s examine each ingredient in the general formula for cooked
sausages.
Meat:
What was said for fresh
sausages can be applied to cooked sausages. In addition to pork, other
common meats are beef, game and poultry. Meat should be treated the same
way:
Trim the meat of all
visible fat, sinew, blood vessels, glands and connective tissue and cut
it into chunks about 2-inches each. The meat used should be chilled 400F (40C)
during the preparation steps. The percentage of meat depends on the
specific formula; often several meats are combined [for example, some
bologna contains a mixture beef, pork and veal]
Fat:
As in fresh sausage,
fat is important for producing a succulent sausage. A variety of animal
fats can be used. Generally the fat is pork, but beef, lamb, poultry fat
and poultry skin is often used. Prepare that fat as you did the meat,
keeping it under 400F (40C); this will insure a good
fat definition and avoid smearing the fat when you stuff the casings!
The percentage of fat varies depending on the type of sausage being
made. Generally when using pork shoulder, you can assume that they have
about 20% fat; Pork bellies about 50%; pork jowls about 70%. You may
have to add fat or meat to obtain the proper percentage for your
particular formulation.
Water:
As in the formulation of fresh sausages, water is used to dissolve the
soluble ingredients so that they can be distributed evenly through the
meat/fat mixture. If the sausage recipe calls for holding the sausage
mixture under refrigeration before cooking, the water/salt/cure mixture
also functions to solubilize the proteins so that the proteins coagulate
and firm up the sausage during cooking.
Salt: The percentage of salt is more critical in cooked
sausage. Besides seasoning the meat, salt is necessary to extract the SSHCP proteins [salt-soluble, heat coagulable proteins] in the meat
muscle. Remember never measure salt as a volume measurement
[tablespoons, etc] but always weigh the salt. Remember
that Kosher, pickling, sea and table salt all have different densities
and it is quite easy to over salt using volume measurements!
Nitrite Cure: In my opinion, nitrite is
essential in cooked, smoked, and dry-cured sausages! The amount of
curing salt is strictly defined by the USDA.
For health reasons, never use more
that 0.25% nitrate cure in any sausage! There are a number of
cures on the market and confusion is often the order of the day. Cure #1
is a cure that contains salt and 6.25% Sodium nitrite [along with a
little pink die and anti-caking agent] --- so read the label carefully!
Flavorings: What was true for fresh sausage, the most common are
pepper, garlic, sugar, chili pepper, parsley, onion, ginger, coriander,
cumin, mace, and sage. You can use fresh seasonings and spices or dried.
Alter the kinds and amounts of seasonings to suit your taste. [Note:
some formulations also call for the addition of skim milk powder, soy
powder, etc. These are generally added to help retain moisture and bind
the ingredients to form a firm sausage. Often these can be omitted
if you prefer not to consume them, but trial and error is needed with
this approach, so make small test batches at first and keep notes!]
Preparation of the sausage: Sausages to be cooked are
generally refrigerated for 24 hours before cooking. The purpose here is
two-fold: it allows the meat to salt cure (solubilizes the SSHCP) and
the flavors to equalize through the meat paste. Use the two-stage
grinding method when preparing cooked sausages. First grind the meat
coarsely through a large grinder plate; then add remaining ingredients
to the ground meat according to the formulation, and re-grind through a
finer plate.
Stuffing: Stuffing is a straight
forward process. The object is to get the meat paste into a form
that can be easily manipulated. The casings used can be natural
intestine casings or artificial casings. Often it is the
preference of the consumer unless you are trying to duplicate the look
of a traditional sausage. The important thing to remember is to stuff
them firmly but not tightly and to use a pin to prick any air pockets
under the casing. Large, heavy sausages will require you to tie them in
links or rings with twine to support them during the cooking process.
Storage:
Cooked sausages have a longer
shelf-life than fresh sausages. The still must be kept refrigerated but
will remain edible after several weeks if properly packaged. They can be
wrapped and frozen for up to a 3 months or vacuum packed [e.g. Food
Saver©] and frozen for about 6
months.
SMOKED SAUSAGE:
Cooked sausages are often smoked in order to enhance their flavor and color
as well as helping to extending the shelf-life of the sausage. It is
important to understand that such smoking does not completely preserve the
sausage unless it was somewhat dried [more about this later]. In general,
sausages to be smoked are air-dried at an ambient temperature of
approximately 680F and
a relative humidity of approximately 60-65% to allow surface water on the
casing to evaporate. Be careful not to over-dry the casing or the smoke will
not penetrate at all. Smoking can be done by either the hot or the
cold method.
Sausage
makers use the
hot-smoke
method for sausage
that is to be partially or completely cooked in the smoker. After drying the
outer casing, smoke is generated while the sausage is cooking. The casing
should be dry to the touch or the “bitter” elements that compose wood smoke
will be deposited on the sausage giving it an off taste. For good smoke
penetration into the sausage, it is important to have a relative humidity of
about 45%. Color development of a smoked sausage is proportional to increase
in temperature -- i.e., the more rapidly the temperature increases, the
faster the color of the sausage will develop. This is the reason why many
formulations suggest a temperature-holding schedule.
The cold smoking
method is generally
used to impart a rich smoky flavor without cooking the sausage. Often cold
smoking is used as a drying method for sausages, meats and fish. In addition
to drying the product, the smoke adds color and flavor to the sausage.
Products like mettwurst, teewurst, liverwurst, bacon are often cold smoked.
Temperature is a critical component of cold-smoking. Try to keep the
temperature range between 95-1100F. Depending on which product is
being produced, schedules vary from a few hours to many days in order to get
the proper flavor, color and dryness.
A simple set-up that I use is disconnect
the hot smoking unit from my Bradley smoker. Then I put a 110 VAC hot
plate on a rack in my bullet-type smoker. I replace the bullet top with a
piece of aluminum roof flashing with a 4-inch opening. Then I connect
one end of an 6-foot section (it can be longer) of 4-inch aluminum
dryer-ducting the flashing and the other to a 4-inch opening in my Bradley
smoker. All that's needed now is a small cast iron pan on top of the
hot-plate and a good source of smoking wood. I've tried hardwood
sawdust, but in this set-up I prefer hardwood chunks.
A possible
alternative to smoking in an oven is the use of
liquid smoke.
For example to produce a smoke flavor in sausage loaves cooked in molds,
liquid smoke is added to the water in the formulation at a rate ½ teaspoon/
pound [or more accurately 5.4 ml/kilogram] of meat paste.
Not
long ago a came across another neat way to make a cold smoker from a
galvanized garbage can. The web site is called "Started Smoking...Meat"
at
Mamaliga.com
. Check it out. Another one along similar lines was built from parts
totaling about $50. Check out
Craftbox. No
need to sped a lot to get excellent cold smoked sausage, meats, fish and cheese. The picture of mine, using a Bradley Smoker, will do both hot and cold
smoking depending on how I set it up. Currently the smoking craze has
generated a number of quality commercially available smokers in varying
price ranges.
The Meaning of pH
Before we continue with the discussion of fermented sausage
(below), it's necessary to have an operational definition of pH.
Acids in water
separate into ions (Atoms with electron imbalances are called ions), and the
positive ion is hydrogen (H+). When hydrochloric acid (HCl) mixes with
water, it separates into positive hydrogen (H+) and negative chlorine (Cl-).
Hydrogen (H+) combines with water (H2O) to make hydronium (H3O+). Bases in water also separate
into ions, and the negative ion is hydroxide (OH-). When the base sodium
hydroxide (NaOH) mixes with water, it separates into positive sodium (Na+)
and negative hydroxide (OH-).
The pH-value indicates the degree of acidity
in the meat. Acids all produce Hydrogen ions (H+). Acids like Hydrochloric
acid (HCl) produce lots of Hydrogen ions. Chemists write "hydrogen ion
concentration" as [H+]. The pH of a solution is expressed mathematically as
the negative logarithm of the hydrogen ion [H+] concentration.
When
producing meat products, the pH-value should lie between 4 to 7; pH- values
from 0 to 7 denotes an acidic nature (the smaller the number the more acidic
the solution). The neutral point is 7; pH values from 7 to 14 signify
alkalinity (the larger the number the more alkaline the solution).
When
Hydrogen Chloride gas dissolves in water it form Hydrochloric acid and the
molecules of Hydrogen Chloride dissociate into Hydrogen ions and Chloride
ions.
Water also
dissociates to produce ions, this time it is Hydrogen ions and Hydroxyl
ions.
Sodium
Hydroxide also dissociates to produce ions when it is dissolved in water,
this time it is Sodium ions and Hydroxyl ions.
In each
case we can measure or calculate the concentration of Hydrogen ions present.
In
HCl(aq) Hydrochloric acid
[H+]
= 0.01
In
H2O(l) water
[H+]
= 0.0000001
In
NaOH(aq) Sodium Hydroxide solution
[H+]
= 0.00000000000001
As you can
see, these numbers are small and difficult to read and write. By counting
the decimal places each of the above can be written as:
HCl
(aq)
pH
2
H2O (l)
pH
7
NaOH (aq)
pH
14
Although a pH value has no unit, it
is not an arbitrary scale; the number arises from a definition based on the activity of
hydrogen ions in the solution. The
definition of pH is the number equal to the negative logarithm to base 10 of
the hydrogen ion concentration: This can be represented by the mathematical
formula:
pH = -log10[H+]
Log10 denotes the
base 10 logarithm, and pH defines a logarithmic scale of acidity. A lower pH
value (for example pH 3) indicates increasing strength of acidity, and
a higher pH value (for example pH 11) indicates increasing strength of
alkalinity. Some common pH values found in raw meats used for sausage making
and meat production are:
pH 5.8 to
6.2 Pork muscle
pH 5.5 to
5.8 Beef muscle
pH 6.0
Veal
pH 6.5 - 6.7
Chicken
|
Meat with
a low pH-value (pH-value
below 5.8)
has a poor
water binding capacity. This means high cooking losses, inconsistent weight
and a dry, straw-like consistency. For this reason water-bonding chemicals,
like sodium polyphosphates, are generally added to the formulation. It's use
is optional, however. Other additives contribute to good curing features,
such as accelerators like ascorbate or erythorbate, that are used for good
color development and color stability. These accelerators act as reducing
agents and/or lower the pH to provide the environment required to enhance
the rate of conversion of nitrite to nitric oxide, which reacts with
myoglobin plus heat to yield pink-colored nitrosyl-hemochrome [or
nitroso-myoglobin]. The reduction of microorganism growth by the addition of
nitrite results in a longer shelf-life and a longer storability of the meat
and meat products.
For a more scholarly discussion of pH see:
How to
Determine pH or
The
Wikipedia Definition
FERMENTED SAUSAGE
This area of sausage making
is definitely the most complicated and should never be attempted by
anyone who does not have a good understanding of the chemistry and
microbiology involved in the process. The etiology of the word “botulism”,
which is caused by a toxin produced by Clostridium botulinum,
is derived from the Latin word botulus, meaning "sausage"! Inadequate
understanding of the complexity and condition necessary can result in
serious illness or death! In the past history of
fermented sausage-making the procedures were dependent on the art of sausage
maker that was passed down from father to son. Today’s production relies on
our scientific understanding of the fermentation process and microbial
action to produce a high quality safe product that minimizes or eliminates
pathogenic and spoilage bacteria.
Sausages that are produced
as a result of bacterial fermentation are classed as either dry or semi-dry
sausages. The fermentation results from the ‘digestion” of carbohydrates in
the meat paste resulting in an accumulation of lactic acid. As a result, the
pH is generally reduced to pH 5 or lower. Fermentation is ancient
process of preserving meats. In the not too distant past, chopped meat was
mixed with salt and allowed to “sour”, producing an edible sausage. The
technique was very unreliable since it depended on the presence of “good”
bacteria in the meat mixture—which was not always the case.
A modern and more
scientific approach is to create a mixture of salt, sodium nitrite and
sodium nitrate, and a "starter" culture of acid-producing bacteria [LAB -
lactic acid bacteria], which is mixed with ground meat. Using the more
modern method, pathogenic bacteria die or are inhibited by the amount of
acid produced during fermentation and the lack of moisture in the finished
product. Among other things, the nitrite/nitrate salts control the
development of botulinum spores produced by Clostridium botulinum.
With respect to
the pathogenic bacteria Salmonella, Listeria, and
Staphylococcus aureus, the first hours and days of fermentation are
critical. The rapid development of LAB competing with the spoilage bacteria
is very important because the produce an environment conducive to a rapid
reduction in the pH to below 5.4. The growth and development of desirable
LAB is favored by curing salt, anaerobic conditions, added sugars, and
a low initial pH of the meat paste. With regards to
Escherichia coli serotype O157:H7 the
jury is still out. E. coli has been reported to survive in the
fermentation environment of salami in commercial production in California,
Washington and Australia in the '90's causing a number of people to become
ill. It was estimated that fewer than 50 organisms may have been
present in the dry fermented salami which caused infection in the Washington
State outbreak, so it is important to be able to predict the efficacy of
production practices. A 1997 CDC report indicated 61 deaths due to
Escherichia coli O157:H7. The FSIS
requires what is termed a 5-log reduction in the pertinent
pathogenic microorganisms (i.e., reduce pathogens by 100,000-fold ) or
a hold until tested before release procedure.
Since the 90's, FSIS regulations, industry cooperation and testing have
minimized the danger of E. coli contamination. It is extremely
important that home-sausage makers be exceptional careful and clean when
preparing dry-cured products; always grind your own meat from large muscle
-- never use pre-ground meats from a butcher shop or supermarket because of
the possibility that the meat may have been in the case long enough for
bacteria to multiply to a dangerous level!
Dry sausages, like salami, are not cooked but are hung to dry
after fermentation until there is a 25% or more loss [by weight] in
moisture. The drying period depends upon a number of conditions: choice of
meat, the formulation and method of fermentation, the diameter of the
casing, temperature and humidity of the drying room, etc. A dry cured
sausage with a diameter larger than 1¾-inches is commonly referred to as
“salami”. The overall maturation may require anywhere between 30 and 90
days. The resulting sausages are “raw” but shelf-stable and can be kept
without refrigeration for several months. Sausage fermented with bacteria
and a nitrite/nitrate cure is not “cooked” as we understand the term. There
is more information about this process later in the section on “Making
Salami”.
Semi-dry sausages are a variety of sausage that is
harder and denser than fresh sausage, but not as hard as a dry sausage. They
are generally smoked, cooked or a combination of both processes. Then they
are air-cooled and dried until about 10-15% of their moisture is lost.
Although somewhat dried, they are not shelf-stable unless refrigerated.
Since they are fully cooked or fermented, they can be used as a ready-to-eat
sausage. Summer sausage, Lebanon bologna and smoked beef stick are a good
example.
A general formula
for a dried or semi-dried sausage is:
Meat, lean |
= 72% |
Fat, hard |
= 25% |
Salt |
= 2.5% |
Carbohydrate |
= <1% |
Seasonings |
= 1% |
Starter Culture |
= 0.1% |
Nitrite |
= 156 PPM |
General Ingredients used
in Fermented Sausage.
Meat: The meat is generally
moderately chopped, although in some specialty sausages, like German
Teewurst, are finely chopped. Many of the varieties of fermented sausages,
like summer sausages, are cold smoked. Use only the highest quality of
meat when making fermented sausage. A number of meats work well. Generally
there is a high percentage of pork and beef in most fermented sausages.
The reasons are quite technical and have to do with muscle chemistry and
denaturation. The beef/pork mixture improves the color of the final
product, allows for better protein solubilization, and improves drying
rate. A typical proportion is 55% lean pork and 15% lean beef. [Many
commercial makers prefer older animals like bull meat to beef]. In
the US the next most utilized meat is poultry meat and, to a much lesser
extent, veal and lamb.
Fat: One must be more careful in the
selection of fat that is used for these kinds of sausages. The best fat to
use is pork back fat which has a high melting point. Lower quality fats,
like intramuscular fats [often termed “soft-fat”], generally have a
greater tendency to oxidation that produces off-flavors and contributes to
rancidity. Note: Long cold storage of fat is not recommended because the
enzymes that breakdown fats into fatty acids are not inhibited by cold
temperatures – do not store frozen fat more that than 60 days.
Curing Salts: The essential
ingredients are salt (NaCl), sodium nitrite (NaNO2) and sodium nitrate (NaNO3). The salt concentration is
usually recommended to be 2½%-3%; the maximum concentration of nitrite
is ¼-ounce per 100 pounds of meat. The salt solubilizes the protein so
the other reactions necessary for fermentation can take place. Nitrate
is added to fermented sausages because the long aging process uses up
most of the nitrite and bacteria present in the meat paste slowly
convert the nitrate to nitrite. By the completion of fermentation and
dry-aging the majority of the nitrite is “used up” and converted to
gaseous nitric oxide. This gas combines with myoglobin producing the
pink color of the sausage. The action of these chemicals are necessary
for the solubilization of protein and inhibiting the growth of most
micro-organisms while providing a suitable environ for lactic acid
bacteria to thrive.
NaNO3 →
NaNO2 → Na + NO + Myoglobin → Nitroso-myoglobin
(pink color)
You will notice that
some formulations for fermented sausages call for the addition of citric
acid, sodium erythrobate or ascorbic acid. These compounds, called
anti-oxidants, are added to inhibit the formation of cancer-causing
nitrosamines as well as stabilize color and prevent oxidation of fat
that would produce off-flavors.
NITRITE USED IN CURED, COMMINUTED
PRODUCTS
Excerpted from PROCESSING
INSPECTORS' CALCULATIONS HANDBOOK,
Revised 1995,
Food Safety
Inspection Service, USDA
The amount
of ingoing nitrite permitted in comminuted products, such as bologna,
specific and nonspecific loaves, salami, etc., is based on the green
weight of the meat and/or poultry and/or meat/poultry byproducts (meat
block) used in the product formulation. Shrinkage is not a factor in the
calculation. If nitrate is used in conjunction with nitrite, the limits of
the two compounds are calculated separately and the permitted maximum of
each may be used.
Calculation Formula
PPM =
(pounds of nitrite x 1,000,000) ÷ green weight of
meat block
* Green Weight - The weight of the meat and/or poultry
(ham, breast, belly, beef or pork trim for sausage, etc.) prior to
processing (grinding, pumping, breading, cooking, drying, etc.). Nothing
has been added or removed from the meat and/or poultry.
MAXIMUM INGOING NITRITE AND
NITRATE LIMITS (IN PPM)
FOR MEAT AND POULTRY PRODUCTS*
Curing Agent
Curing Method
Immersion Cured
Massaged/Pumped*
Comminuted** Dry Cured***
Sodium Nitrite
200
200
156 625
Potassium Nitrite
200
200
156
625
Sodium Nitrate
700
700
1718 2187
Potassium Nitrate
700
700
1718
2187
* There are
more stringent limits for curing agents in bacon to
reduce the formation of nitrosamines. For this same
reason, nitrate is no longer permitted in any bacon
(pumped and/or massaged, dry cured, or immersion cured).
**Cured,
Comminuted Products - Products consisting of coarsely or
finely ground meat and/or poultry and cure ingredients
mixed together (bologna, turkey salami, pepperoni,
pepper loaf, etc.).
***Cured,
Dry Products - Products that have dry or powdered cure
ingredients directly applied to the surface of the meat
or poultry muscle (ham, pork shoulder, pork belly,
etc.).
As a matter of policy, the
FSIS requires a minimum of 120 ppm of ingoing nitrite in all cured "Keep
Refrigerated" products, unless the establishment can demonstrate that
safety is assured by some other preservation process, such as thermal
processing, pH or moisture control. This 120 ppm policy for ingoing
nitrite is based on safety data reviewed when the bacon standard was
developed.
There is no regulatory minimum
ingoing nitrite level for cured products that have been processed to
ensure their shelf stability (such as having undergone a complete thermal
process, or having been subjected to adequate pH controls, and/or moisture
controls in combination with appropriate packaging). However, 40 ppm
nitrite is useful in that it has some preservative effect. This amount has
also been shown to be sufficient for color-fixing purposes and to achieve
the expected cured meat or poultry appearance.
A note on using celery powder to cure
sausage:
A confusion exists in some folks that nitrites and nitrates might
cause cancer. The U.S. National Toxicology Program (NTP),
completed a multi-year study in which rats and mice were fed high
levels of sodium nitrite. The study found that nitrite was not
associated with cancer. NTP maintains a list of chemicals found to
be carcinogenic. Sodium nitrite is not on that list.
In order to be considered “cured,” sausage meats must contain a form
of nitrite. Nitrites provide protection against the growth of
botulinum toxin-producing organisms. Sodium nitrite is a safe,
government-approved curing ingredient that gives cured meats their
characteristic taste and color. Its health benefit is that it
prevents the growth of C. botulinum (the cause of botulism). Without
nitrite, cured meats won’t have the taste and appearance that makes
a salami taste and eat like salami. A meat or sausage label that
says “natural, uncured, or no nitrates or nitrites added” simply
means that no commercial sodium nitrate or sodium nitrite chemical
salts were added to cure the meat. However it does not mean that
the product is free of nitrates or nitrites.
Celery or beet powder is often cited as a curing agent and
substitute for chemical nitrite and nitrite salts. Celery powder
contains a significant amount of naturally occurring nitrate.
Celery powder prepared from celery juice has been shown to have a
nitrate content of approximately 2.75%. Unlike standardized curing
salt mixtures, there are no standards of nitrite or nitrate content
in a celery juice powder. A vendor of celery juice powder should
provide you with some sort of certified analysis indicating the
content of nitrite and nitrate in their product. Hopefully they will
provide a suggested usage level for their extract! Otherwise you
will need to calculate how much powder you need to produce 156 ppm
concentration of nitrate to be added to the sausage.
Neither celery powder nor other natural sources of nitrite are
approved for use in 9 CFR 424.21(c) as curing agents for meat. They
are allowed as flavoring agents, however. (“Celery powder can be
added to meat and poultry products as a flavoring in accordance with
317.2(f)(1)(i)(B) and 381.118(c)(2) along with other natural sources
of nitrite such as beet juice and sea salt. Because celery powder
and other natural sources of nitrite are not currently approved for
use in 9 CFR 424.21(c) as curing agents, products that are required
to contain chemical curing agents and cure accelerators as part of a
standard of identity in 9 CFR 319 or 9 CFR 317.17(b) but instead are
formulated with natural sources of nitrite and ascorbate (e.g., hot
dogs and corned beef that contain celery powder instead of sodium or
potassium nitrite and cherry powder instead of ascorbate) must be
labeled as "uncured" under 9 CFR 319.2.”--- Code of Federal
Regulations)
Also see:
Is celery juice a viable alternative to nitrites in cured meats?
|
Using the above
information and formula, what is the PPM of nitrite in a formulation for
Italian salami the uses 6.0 grams of Cure#2 for 2.5 kilograms [or 5.5
pounds] of meat? Converting from the metric to standard American
measurements shows that 6 grams is equal to 0.21164ounces of cure; but
only 6.25% of that weight is nitrite! So the actual amount of nitrite is
equal to 0.01322 ounces [0.21164 ounces x .0625] or 0.0008267
pound of nitrite [0.01322 ounces / 16
ounces/pound]. Substituting in the above formula, we get:
PPM =
(pounds of nitrite x 1,000,000)
÷ green weight of
meat block
PPM =
(0.0008267 x 1,000,000)
÷ 5.5
PPM = 826.7
÷ 5.5
PPM = 150.3
Similar calculations can
be preformed separately for the PPM of nitrate in a formulation,
remembering that cure#2 contains 4% nitrate. Both nitrite and nitrate
are calculated separately.
Note: be careful of formulations posted on the
web, one I saw for Italian salami contained only saltpeter as a cure
(Potassium nitrate) at the rate of 3,547 PPM (only 1718 PPM are
permitted)!!!!
Starter Cultures:
I am often asked questions
that relate to the fact that a person’s family recipe does not include
the use of starters and they have had no problem. All I can say is that
they’ve been lucky. I liken it to turnpike driving; if you do everything
correctly, there is a pretty good chance of not getting killed … but
it’s not a surety! Bacteria can get into the meat mix buy chance
contamination; by an old commercial method called “back slopping” where
a portion of a previous meat mix is added to the newer one; or, by the
addition of a “starter culture” of known bacteria that are generally
regarded by the USDA as safe for human food preparation. Starters have
been used in the beer, wine, cheese and baking industry for many years
and the consistency of their products depend upon them.
The use of starter
cultures has become standard practice in the meat industry because they
provide a safe environment for beneficial bacteria and inhibit spoilage
and pathogenic bacteria. Laboratory experiments have shown a rapid
decline in populations of enterobacteria [like E. coli] in
proportion to the rapid increase of starter culture bacteria [like
Lactobacillus sp. and Pediococcus sp.]. There is an extensive
coverage on the selection and use of starter cultures on this page and
the reader is encouraged to study it carefully before attempting to use
any starter. The bacterial cultures are quite specific with the
manufacturer’s suggestions of optimum growth requirements … always
follow their suggestions!
Carbohydrate:
Some
formulations may contain glucose, sucrose, lactose, starches or dextrins.
These carbohydrates are metabolized at different rates thereby
regulating the speed and degree of acid formation in the sausage. The
purpose is to provide fermentable substrate so that the bacteria in the
meat can ferment it and produce lactic acid. The most commonly used
carbohydrate is glucose [also called dextrose] because it is the
simplest in molecular construction and most readily utilized by
bacteria.
Some
formulations also call for the use of some sort of binder to assist in
holding the sausage together and making it firm. These are generally
used in commercial products. They include such things as non-fat dried
milk and corn syrup solids. In home produced products that can be
considered optional and a matter of personal preference of the sausage
maker.
Seasonings:
The purpose of seasonings is
to enhance the flavor of the sausage and often to influence its color.
Common seasonings are various combinations of pepper, garlic, paprika,
spices; for example, mace, thyme, sage coriander oregano mustard seed,
cloves, and anise seeds. Some seasonings like
garlic, pepper and rosemary also have antibacterial properties.
Generally, the spices are used in their dried form, although
commercially extracts and oils are frequently used. With exception of
pepper, garlic and paprika, spices are generally 1% or less of the
formulation. They are the one variable that can be manipulated to suit
the sausage makers’ taste.
Fermentation: The main objective of
fermentation is to achieve the correct temperature for bacterial growth
and development, which in turn will cause rise in acidity [or a drop in
pH]. Complete fermentation will depend upon the bacterial flora present,
temperature of incubation, humidity and diameter of the sausage; this
can take anywhere from 12- 48 hours. The temperature, using starters, is
generally in the range of 85-950F and a relative humidity as
high as 90%. You will notice that as fermentation progresses the sausage
slowly changes from a tan-light brown color to a redder color as the
nitrite is reduced to nitric oxide and myoglobin becomes oxidized. The
soft meat paste of the sausage begins to “firm up” as the lactic acid in
the meat begins to accumulate; you will also notice a strong acidic
aroma.
At this point, the production procedure for
dry and
semi-dry sausages takes a somewhat different path.
After fermentation the semi dry sausage is finished by cooking in a
smoker, at a temperature of approximately 140 – 1550F and a relative humidity of
80% for a period long enough to ensure that all microbiological activity
is halted. The heat and relative humidity are then readjusted to meet a
specific temperature/time requirement, set by the FSIS/USDA, sufficient
to eliminate pathogens. [The smoking period should be for a minimum of 1
hour at 35%R/H at a temperature high enough to produce an internal
temperature of 1400F]. This will produce a sausage with a moisture level of about
50%. Since the moisture level is relatively high, semi-dry sausages must
be refrigerated to prevent spoilage. Always carefully follow the
cooking/smoking schedule in your formulation!
Drying: Drying is a critical stage in
the production of fermented sausages. The main objective here is to
remove water from the sausage. The drying should proceed in an
environment where the relative humidity is approximately 5 to 8 percent
below the moisture in the sausage. If drying is too fast, a hard layer
of protein will form just under the surface forming a waterproof shell
[referred to as “case-hardening”]. This will prevent interior moisture
from diffusing out of the sausage and contribute to possible spoilage.
This dictates that the humidity must be progressively reduced as the
sausage dries. If the sausage is to be
dry cured, then with a humidity
starting in the high 80’s, gradually decrease the relative humidity to
approximately 65% over the span of several weeks of drying. The
total loss in weight of the product (from its wet or “green” stage
should be at least 30%. If the sausage is to be
semi-dry cured, the total loss in weight
should be a minimum of 10%, with 15% being the average. Follow the
directions carefully for your particular formulation. Regardless of the
type produced, the drying area should have a regular exchange of fresh
air; this could be accomplished with a tiny fan. Target the CFM to about
¼-foot/second.
Mold
Development: I often get
questions on mold development on the surface of such products as salami.
You should know that in the more humid environments of Southern Europe, it
is desirable to have sausage dried in an environment that encourages the
development of a “noble” mold .. a species of Penicillium. This
mold is a fine white powdery covering over the surface of the sausage.
(see photo at the right) It develops naturally in those areas since the
mold spores are so common in the air. BUT, there are other mold spores in
the air which are not desirable. These are black, green and brown
molds; some might be reddish and they can be quite fuzzy or wispy. To be
safe, I suggest using a starter mold which is added to the surface of the
sausage before drying takes place. One such mold culture is
Bactoferm M-EK-4, which is a pure culture of Penicillium nalgiovense
manufactured by Chr. Hansen, Co.
The photo below
shows salami at various stages off their aging and maturation. The extreme
left ones are almost ready to be eaten, while the extreme right salami
have just begun the aging process. The growth of filamentous fungi on the
surface of salami during ripening is an important factor for the quality
of the product quality because it helps the biochemical changes involved
in the process of maturation. Some of these fungi, however, can cause
problems related to discoloration and off-flavor, as well as damage on the
casings. In addition, some fungi are associated to health hazards due to
toxin production. .The
growth of desirable molds on the surface of salami enhances the maturation
process in by preventing the development of "case hardening" on the
surface of the sausage. Penicillium mold degrades lactic acid that
is produced throughout maturation, resulting in a slight pH increase and a
decrease in sausage tang. Penicillium nalgiovense is a
species of the genus Penicillium and it is a frequently used
starter culture for mold ripened dry-cured sausages and salami. P.
nalgiovense related very closely to P. chrysogenum, a well
known producer of the antibiotic penicillin.
Similar strains of Penicillium are used in the cheese industry, for
example,
Penicillium camemberti and Penicillium roqueforti, used in the
production of Roquefort and Camembert cheeses.
The surface
growth of P. nalgiovense suppresses the growth of other
undesirable organisms such as indigenous molds, yeasts and bacteria. This
species is indigenous to a number of
areas in Southern Europe and the
some areas of the United States, especially the San Francisco Bay Area. In
these areas the mold grows rapidly on salami given the proper temperature
and humidity. Optimum growth conditions are 64oF/18oC and 60% R/H. In the picture on the right, the salami on the right
side of the plate is covered with indigenous (wild) molds, whereas the on
on the left has been inoculated with a Penicillium nalgiovense
starter culture. Notice the more even and full coverage on the
salami inoculated with P. nalgiovense. The growth is so rapid in
this case that other potentially harmful molds are crowded out and
prevented from growing on the casings. In some areas of our country there
are a number of indigenous molds that are strains of P. nalgiovense
that a good coverage of mold is obtained. However, the starter cultures
are relatively inexpensive and last for a long time. If you make salami
often enough, the walls and ceiling of maturation and aging area will
contain many active spores after a period of time and you'll find that
there may be no need to inoculate with fresh starter!
A number of
native or indigenous molds are unsightly; some will impart an "off" flavor
to the salami and yet others might produce toxins that are harmful.
The major problem with taking a chance and hoping
that desirable native molds will grow on the surface of your dry-cured
sausages is that other non-desirable molds may also grow and some may be a
health hazard. This is especially true if the proper humidity is not
maintained. Click on the picture at the left, it shows a number of
indigenous molds that have grown on a salami cured under improper
humidity. Never eat a salami that looks like this. Peeling off the casing
will not remove any of the mold that has penetrated the meat! If you
desire that nice white "bloom" on your salami, I suggest that don't put
your trust in indigenous molds instead purchase a mold
starter culture from a supplier, such as
Butcher and
Packer Company.
DRY-CURED PRODUCTS: Dry-cured meats are those commonly
held without refrigeration; example, Smithfield-type hams and prosciutto
among others. The meats used in these products are generally whole muscle
meat like ham or loin. Dry-cured pork products are often eaten uncooked.
Prescribed concentrations of salt are a necessity for making dry-cured
sausage and meats. A lot of discussion can occur around this
topic and the reader is cautioned when searching the WWW that many
opinions are just that..OPINIONS! Always consider the sources! Seek
out official government regulatory sources, research reports and industry
standards before attempting to alter any recipe.
For official guidelines on
curing, you should at least check the following publications: Canadian
Food Inspection Agency - Chapter 4 Annex A: Approved Curing Methods
To Ensure The Destruction Of Trichinella In Sausages And Other Meat
Products Containing Striated Pork Muscle Tissues. CFIA
View Citation.
If you wish to
see an excerpt of the USDA citation, click here —>
Citation.
It is strongly recommended that
before attempting to make any dry-cure product that the reader review the
documents linked above and below that relate to guidelines for the
destruction of Trichinae (causes Trichinosis) in pork
muscle. Trichinosis:
Centers for Disease Control and
Prevention,
Division of Parasitic Diseases
Fact Sheet. (View the document).
Please be advised that the treatments described in those documents are
not designed to destroy pathogenic bacteria that may also be present
in meat. Among those organisms are Clostridium botulinum
(causes Botulism), Escherichia coli O157:H7, Listeria
monocytogenes, and Staphylococcus aureus.
/
The use of salt, time,
temperature and nitrites play important roles in the curing of meat. The
curing and aging processes either kill or minimize these organisms so as
they are not infectious. There are strict guidelines regarding the
processing, curing and aging of meats which are completely described in
both the publications of the Food Safety And Inspection Service of the
United States Department of Agriculture as well as the Canadian Food
Inspection Agency.
The maximum amount of nitrite
applied to the muscle being dry-cured cannot exceed 625 PPM.
To be certain that sausages are
Trichina-worm free, the sausage maker is encouraged to process the
raw pork according to instructions in the above cited documents and
summarized as shown in the table below. This will result in what is termed
"certified pork", an industry term for pork that has been handled
according to USDA requirements. Don't expect to go to your local
supermarket and ask for "certified pork" unless you enjoy seeing blank
stares.
Freezing Requirements for Trichina-free
Pork
Federal Meat Inspection Service - USDA
Freezer
Temperature |
Meat Thickness
6 inches Thick or Less |
Meat Thickness
6+ to 27 Inches Thick |
5°F (-15°C) |
20 Days |
30 Days |
-10° (-23.3°C) |
10 Days |
20 Days |
The use of salt, time,
temperature and nitrites play important roles in the curing of meat. The
curing and aging processes either kill or minimize these organisms so as they are
not infectious. There are strict guidelines regarding the
processing, curing and aging of meats which are completely described in
both the publications of the Food Safety And Inspection Service of the
United States Department of Agriculture as well as the Canadian Food
Inspection Agency.
The maximum amount of
nitrite applied to the muscle being dry-cured cannot exceed 625 PPM or 1
ounce per 100 pounds of meat block..
The curing ingredients
are placed on the surface of the meat and draw moisture away from the
muscle forming a brine. This brine facilitates the movement of salt (and
nitrite/nitrates, if used) into the meat. In some products only salt is
used and the meat is completely packed with a thick covering. The
disadvantage of this procedure is that the meat becomes overly salty and
discolored. This process is rarely used commercially today, but it was
commonly used by homesteads in the past to preserve lard and make salted
pork.
In contemporary times a
modification of salt curing is used. The newer method used sugar, nitrite
and nitrate mixed with the salt to make a “curing salt”. Its is important
to understand that the amount of nitrite used for dry-curing muscle meats
cannot exceed 625 PPM; the amount of nitrate cannot exceed 2187 PPM. It
should be noted that the FSIS/USDA now forbids the use of nitrate in
commercially produced bacon .. only nitrite and ascorbic acid are
permitted in the cure.
A general formula for a
dry-cured product:
Muscle meat |
= 20
lb. |
Salt
|
= 1.2
lb. |
Sugar
|
= 0.5
lb. |
Curing
salt |
= 0.2
ounces* |
*based on
government regulation of 1 ounce of cure per 100 pounds of
meat, which is equivalent to 625 PPM of nitrite
Curing:
Curing ingredients are rubbed
all over the surface of the meat and the meat is then stacked in boxes or
placed on shelves. Don't misconstrue the term "rub. It's not necessary to
vigorously scrub the meat, just use enough pressure to evenly coat the
meat. The humidity and temperature are strictly controlled as is the
curing time. In thick muscle meats like hams, it generally takes 2 days
per pound of meat for adequate cure penetration. To maximize the
penetration of cure, the mixture is often divided into two or three equal
proportions an applied in intervals. The salting and curing stage must be
done under refrigeration [40F] and depending upon the cut of
meat [ham, loin, brisket, belly, etc.] and the product being made, the
amount of time can vary from 2 weeks to 7 weeks. This not only allows for
curing, but equalizes the concentration of salt throughout the muscle.
After salt curing, the meat is generally soaked in water for up to an hour
to remove excess surface salt.
Smoking: If the product is to be smoked,
it is done after salt-curing and rinsing. The primary purpose in smoking
dry cured meat is to assist in preservation, development of flavor, and
production of a desirable mahogany color. One of the most important
effects of smoke are its bactericidal and bacteriostatic properties as
well as assisting in drying and removing moisture from the surface of the
meat. The chemical reactions that occur during smoking to preserve
meats are beyond the scope of this introduction. For readers requiring
detailed explanation, they are directed to research the “Maillard
reaction” at their local library. The general method of
smoking are used for dry-cure meat production is “cold” smoking. Cold smoking is usually
carried out at temperatures of 65-90oF (18-32oC). Short drying times prior
to smoking the meat is required to produce a pellicle, or thin skin, that
helps the meat smoke properly. If the surface is too wet,
undesirable and bitter smoke products will be deposited on the surface of
the meat, imparting a bitter or “off” flavor. The smoke is generally
applied continuously for 2 to 5 days depending upon the product.
Drying and Aging: After the meat is smoked, the
long period of drying starts. The reduction of moisture on the surface of
the meat helps to reduce the microbial growth not only of any surviving
surface bacteria but an other bacteria that may have contaminated the
surface during production. Drying times depend on the type of the meat
being produced and can vary from weeks to months. During the longer
drying times, as in the drying of ham or bacon, temperature and humidity
must be closely controlled so as to ensure proper drying of the meats from
the inside toward the outside. The meat surface is sometimes covered with
lard, pepper or other agent to slow down the surface drying and protect
against insets and mites. Generally the drying/aging room is held at
60-65% relative humidity and a temperature of 65-700F. A gentle air circulation
should also be maintained during the aging. It is during this time that
the flavor characteristics of the meat develop. The flavor differences
among the American country ham, Italian, German, French and Spanish hams
are due to variation in salting, drying, aging and absence or presence of
smoke treatments.
WOODS TO USE TO SMOKE MEATS
Found this chart on a BBQ web
site (and I don't know the author, but its not mine!)
and it gives you some information about the uses of the common types.
Wood
Type and Characteristics |
Use
with |
Acacia: Same family as mesquite, but not as
strong. |
Most
meats, especially beef. Most vegetables. |
Alder: Very delicate with a hint of
sweetness. |
Fish, pork, poultry, and light-meat game birds. |
Almond: A nutty and sweet smoke flavor, light ash |
All
meats. |
Apple: Slightly sweet but denser, fruity smoke flavor |
Beef, poultry, game birds, pork (particularly ham). |
Apricot: The flavor is milder & sweeter than hickory |
Most
meats. |
Ash:
Fast burner, light but distinctive flavor |
Fish
and red meats. |
Birch: Medium hard wood; flavor similar to maple |
Pork
and poultry. |
Cherry: Slightly sweet, fruity smoke flavor |
All
meats. |
Cottonwood: Very subtle in flavor |
Most
meats. |
Grape: vines Aromatic, similar to fruit woods |
All
meats. |
Grapefruit: Medium smoke flavor; hint of fruitiness |
Excellent with beef, pork and poultry |
Hickory: Pungent, smoky, bacon-like flavor |
The
most common wood used! Good for all smoking! |
Lemon: Medium smoke flavor; a hint of fruitiness |
Excellent with beef, pork and poultry |
Lilac: Very light, subtle with a hint of floral |
Seafood and lamb |
Maple: Mildly smoky, somewhat sweet flavor |
Pork, poultry, cheese, and small game birds |
Mesquite: Strong earthy flavor |
Most
meats, especially beef. Most vegetables. |
Mulberry: The smell is sweet; reminds one of apple |
Beef, poultry, game birds, pork (particularly ham). |
Nectarine: Milder and sweeter than hickory |
Most
meats. |
Oak:
The second most popular wood to use. Heavy smoke. |
Red
meat, pork, fish and heavy game. |
Orange: Medium smoke flavor; a hint of fruitiness |
Excellent with beef, pork and poultry |
Peach: Slightly sweet, woodsy flavor |
Most
meats. |
Pear: Slightly sweet, woodsy flavor |
Poultry, game birds, pork. |
Pecan: Similar to hickory, but not as strong |
Good
for most needs. |
Plum: The flavor is milder and sweeter than hickory |
Most
meats. |
Walnut: Very heavy smoke flavor, usually mixed with pecan |
Red
meats and game |
|
WET-CURED OR PICKLED PRODUCTS:
Bacon, pastrami, ham and
corned beef and corned pork are often cured using the wet-cure process. If a
dry cure mix is dissolved in water, it is called a brine or pickle. These
meat products are prepared by curing the meat in liquid brine curing
solution. The ratio of meat to pickle is very important. Generally 1 gallon
of pickle per 20 pounds of meat represents a typical formula. It is
important to note that the use of nitrite in brine/pickle curing is not
essential to the wet-curing of meat; its presence here is primarily for
color retention; the high salt concentration of the brine cures the meat.
Brines should only be used once since the chemicals in the brine react with
the muscle proteins during curing and become used up, altering the
concentration of the brine. In addition to salt, many of the chemical
changes occurring during curing are produced by bacteria which use the
curing substances as a source of food producing new chemicals that flavor
the product. Remember that after curing, meat and poultry are still raw and
must be cooked before being eaten.
For my discussion,
three types of pickle or curing solutions are considered.
-
Salt Pickle (Water
and salt)
-
Nitrite Pickle
(Water, salt, nitrate, and/or nitrite)
-
Sweet Pickle
(Water, salt, nitrate, and/or nitrite to which sugar has been
added).
|
When making a pickling or brining solution please follow the following
recommendations:
·
Keep accurate
notes of the chemicals, temperature, humidity and time used during the
curing process. To eliminate guesswork, label and date meat curing
containers before curing and time the meat is to be removed from the cure.
·
Prepare enough
brine so that meat is will be fully submerged in the pickle.
·
Cure meat at
36°F to 40°F (1°C - 4°C). Meat will not cure properly at colder
temperatures, and warmer temperatures encourage growth of spoilage bacteria.
·
Salt, cure,
and seasonings are generally mixed and dissolved in warm water to ensure
even distribution, then the pickle is cooled to refrigerator temperature. Do
not exceed the curing levels indicated in the recipes.
For the
home sausage makers the
curing pickles
are applied to meat cuts
in either of the following ways. Often the methods are combined.
The process relies on the physical principles of diffusion and osmosis; the
movement of particles (molecules) from an area of high concentration to an
area of lower concentration.
1.
Immersion: This method
involves covering the meat cuts completely by submerging meat cuts in a
curing solution for an extended period of time. Immersion curing is a
slow process and the pickle solution should be changed every 7 days to
prevent spoilage.
2.
Injection or
Injection pumping:
This method involves using a needle with many orifices to inject the
pickle directly into the muscle to allow for more uniform distribution
of the pickle. Loins and shoulders are often injection pumped.
3.
Artery Pumping: In this method the curing solution is injected
into the natural circulatory system of the meat cut using a large artery
to disperse the pickle throughout the muscle. Commercially Large, thick pieces of muscle meat like hams and
brisket are generally artery injected to place the brine in the properly
throughout the muscle.
Any type of injection curing
will speed up the distribution of the cure, and the more the more evenly the
curing agents are distributed, the shorter the curing time. The curing time
with the injection and artery pumping method may be as short as 24 hours.
When pumping the meat, place it on a scale to determine the proper
amount of pickle that has to be pumped into the meat. For example a
formulation calls for a 10 pound loin to be pumped with 12% pickle. Placed
on a scale, pump the meat until it weighs 11.2 pounds.
SALT PICKLE CURING (WATER AND SALT ONLY):
A salt pickle (salt brine)
contains only two ingredients: Water and salt. For quality curing of
the product, a salinometer is a necessary; a scientific instrument (type
of hydrometer) used to measure the salinity, or dissolved salt content, of
a solution. the temperature of the water will have an influence the
accuracy of the reading, so be sure and check the temperature at which the
salinometer is to be used. Salinometers are generally calibrated to be
used at 60°F. When using the salinometer to determine the salt level
of the brine or pickle, be sure salt is the only ingredient in the water.
The scale readings on the instrument are measured in degrees SAL which
can be easily converted into the percent of salt in the solution. A 1000SAL
brine contains 26.4% salt. Therefore the:
Percentage of salt in a brine =
[ 0SAL reading x 26.4% ] / 100.
If the brine measures 650SAL, then the brine would have
17.16% salt.....[65 x 26.4] /100
If you want to avoid the
mathematics at all costs, then the following table will be useful in
preparing a Salt Pickle or Salt Brine:
-
Sodium Chloride Brine Tables for Brine at 60°F
from: K. S. Hilderbrand, Jr., Oregon Sea Grant
through NOAA,
Office of Sea Grant and Extramural Programs,
U.S. Department of Commerce,
Grant no. NA76RG0476, project no. A/ESG-4.
|
Salinometer Degrees
SAL |
Freezing Point Deg.
F.a |
Percent Sodium
Chloride by Wt. |
Pounds Salt Per
Gallon of Water |
Pounds per Gallon of
Brine |
Gallon of water Per
Gal of Brine. |
Specific Gravity |
Salinometer Degrees
-SAL- |
|
|
|
|
NaCl
|
Water |
|
|
|
0 |
+32.0
|
.000
|
.000
|
.000
|
8.328
|
1.000
|
1.000 |
0 |
2 |
+31.5
|
.528
|
.044
|
.044
|
8.318
|
.999
|
1.004 |
2 |
4 |
+31.1
|
1.056
|
.089
|
.089
|
8.297
|
.996
|
1.007 |
4 |
6 |
+30.5
|
1.584
|
.134
|
.133
|
8.287
|
.995
|
1.011 |
6 |
8 |
+30.0
|
2.112
|
.179
|
.178
|
8.275
|
.993
|
1.015 |
8 |
10 |
+29.3
|
2.640
|
.226
|
.224
|
8.262
|
.992
|
1.019 |
10 |
12 |
+28.8
|
3.167
|
.273
|
.270
|
8.250
|
.990
|
1.023 |
12 |
14 |
+28.2
|
3.695
|
.320
|
.316
|
8.229
|
.988
|
1.026 |
14 |
16 |
+27.6
|
4.223
|
.367
|
.362
|
8.216
|
.987
|
1.030 |
16 |
18 |
+27.0
|
4.751
|
.415
|
.409
|
8.202
|
.985
|
1.034 |
18 |
20 |
+26.4
|
5.279
|
.464
|
.456
|
8.188
|
.983
|
1.038 |
20 |
22 |
+25.7
|
5.807
|
.512
|
.503
|
8.175
|
.982
|
1.042 |
22 |
24 |
+25.1
|
6.335
|
.563
|
.552
|
8.159
|
.980
|
1.046 |
24 |
26 |
+24.4
|
6.863
|
.614
|
.600
|
8.144
|
.978
|
1.050 |
26 |
28 |
+23.7
|
7.391
|
.665
|
.649
|
8.129
|
.976
|
1.054 |
28 |
30 |
+23.0
|
7.919
|
.716
|
.698
|
8.113
|
.974
|
1.058 |
30 |
32 |
+22.3
|
8.446
|
.768
|
.747
|
8.097
|
.972
|
1.062 |
32 |
34 |
+21.6
|
8.974
|
.821
|
.797
|
8.081
|
.970
|
1.066 |
34 |
36 |
+20.9
|
9.502
|
.875
|
.847
|
8.064
|
.968
|
1.070 |
36 |
38 |
+20.2
|
10.030
|
.928
|
.897
|
8.047
|
.966
|
1.074 |
38 |
40 |
+19.4
|
10.558
|
.983
|
.948
|
8.030
|
.964
|
1.078 |
40 |
42 |
+18.7
|
11.086
|
1.039
|
.999
|
8.012
|
.962
|
1.082 |
42 |
44 |
+17.9
|
11.614
|
1.094
|
1.050
|
7.994
|
.960
|
1.086 |
44 |
46 |
+17.1
|
12.142
|
1.151
|
1.102
|
7.976
|
.958
|
1.090 |
46 |
48 |
+16.2
|
12.670
|
1.208
|
1.154
|
7.957
|
.955
|
1.094 |
48 |
50 |
+15.4
|
13.198
|
1.266
|
1.207
|
7.937
|
.953
|
1.098 |
50 |
52 |
+14.5
|
13.725
|
1.325
|
1.260
|
7.918
|
.951
|
1.102 |
52 |
54 |
+13.7
|
14.253
|
1.385
|
1.313
|
7.898
|
.948
|
1.106 |
54 |
56 |
+12.8
|
14.781
|
1.444
|
1.366
|
7.878
|
.946
|
1.110 |
56 |
58 |
+11.8
|
15.309
|
1.505
|
1.420
|
7.858
|
.943
|
1.114 |
58 |
60 |
+10.9
|
15.837
|
1.568
|
1.475
|
7.836
|
.941
|
1.118 |
60 |
62 |
+9.9
|
16.365
|
1.629
|
1.529
|
7.815
|
.938
|
1.122 |
62 |
64 |
+8.9
|
16.893
|
1.692
|
1.584
|
7.794
|
.936
|
1.126 |
64 |
66 |
+7.9
|
17.421
|
1.756
|
1.639
|
7.772
|
.933
|
1.130 |
66 |
68 |
+6.8
|
17.949
|
1.822
|
1.697
|
7.755
|
.931
|
1.135 |
68 |
70 |
+5.7
|
18.477
|
1.888
|
1.753
|
7.733
|
.929
|
1.139 |
70 |
72 |
+4.6
|
19.004
|
1.954
|
1.809
|
7.710
|
.926
|
1.143 |
72 |
74 |
+3.4
|
19.532
|
2.022
|
1.866
|
7.686
|
.923
|
1.147 |
74 |
76 |
+2.2
|
20.060
|
2.091
|
1.925
|
7.669
|
.921
|
1.152 |
76 |
78 |
+1.0
|
20.588
|
2.159
|
1.982
|
7.645
|
.918
|
1.156 |
78 |
80 |
-0.4
|
21.116
|
2.229
|
2.040
|
7.620
|
.915
|
1.160 |
80 |
82 |
-1.6
|
21.644
|
2.300
|
2.098
|
7.596
|
.912
|
1.164 |
82 |
84 |
-3.0
|
22.172
|
2.372
|
2.158
|
7.577
|
.910
|
1.169 |
84 |
86 |
-4.4
|
22.700
|
2.446
|
2.218
|
7.551
|
.907
|
1.173 |
86 |
88 |
-5.8
|
23.228
|
2.520
|
2.279
|
7.531
|
.904
|
1.178 |
88 |
88.3
|
-6.0
|
23.307
|
2.531
|
2.288
|
7.528
|
.904
|
1.179 |
88.3
|
90 |
-1.1
|
23.756
|
2.594
|
2.338
|
7.506
|
.901
|
1.182 |
90 |
92 |
+4.8
|
24.283
|
2.670
|
2.398
|
7.479
|
.898
|
1.186 |
92 |
94 |
+11.1
|
24.811
|
2.745
|
2.459
|
7.460
|
.896
|
1.191 |
94 |
95 |
+14.4
|
25.075
|
2.787
|
2.491
|
7.444
|
.894
|
1.193 |
95 |
96 |
+18.0
|
25.339
|
2.827
|
2.522
|
7.430
|
.892
|
1.195 |
96 |
97 |
+21.6
|
25.603
|
2.865
|
2.552
|
7.417
|
.891
|
1.197 |
97 |
98 |
+25.5
|
25.867
|
2.906
|
2.585
|
7.409
|
.890
|
1.200 |
98 |
99 |
+29.8
|
26.131
|
2.947
|
2.616
|
7.394
|
.888
|
1.202 |
99 |
99.6
|
+32.3
|
26.289
|
2.970
|
2.634
|
7.386
|
.887
|
1.203 |
99.6
|
100 b
|
+60.0 c
|
26.395
b |
2.987
|
2.647
|
7.380
|
.886
|
1.204 |
100 b
|
a Temperature at which freezing begins.
b Saturated brine at 60°F.
|
The above table applies to
brine tested at 60°F. For other brine temperatures the observed salinometer
readings must be converted before using them in the table.
For practical purposes, add one degree salinometer
for each 10 degrees above 60°F and deduct one degree salinometer for each 10
degrees below 60°F.
For
example, if a salinometer reading was observed to be 80°SAL in a
brine which was 40°F, the
corrected salinometer reading would be 78°SAL
(subtract 1°SAL for each
10°F below 60°F).
Please note that the
salinometer readings are only valid for salt and water pickles.
Cures and flavorings make the reading inaccurate.
NITRITE, NITRATE AND SWEET PICKLE
CURES
The following comments can be applied to
either the Nitrite/Nitrate or sweet pickle cures. Salt is necessary in these
curing mixtures for proper curing. The main disadvantage of using salt is
its harsh taste and the dark undesirable color of the meat. These problems
are reduced by using nitrite, nitrate and/or sugar. The sugar masks the
harsh flavor of the salt and the nitrite/nitrates preserve the color of the
meat. Spices and flavorings are often added to sweet pickle cures to
enhance the product’s organoleptic properties. The amount of flavorings and
spices are variable and reflect the taste of the sausage maker; However, the
addition of additives like nitrite, nitrate, ascorbates, etc. are strictly
controlled by the FSIS/USDA for all commercial products. Care must always be
exercised when using these ingredients, especially with recipes given by
friends of copied from the internet. Frankly speaking there are web-based
postings by people who have very little experience with these toxic
substances and have posted “deadly” recipes! I have endeavored to include in
several places on this site the mathematical formulas and USDA guidelines so
that you, the hobbyist, can correctly calculate the safety margins of the
restricted items used in your recipes.
This
section includes information on chemical additives and the limitations for
their use in pickle/brine curing solutions
that are applied in or on meat
and meat food products and poultry and poultry food products.
List of Regulated Substances for
Cured Pork and Beef Cuts
Excerpts from Code of
Federal Regulations - Title 9, Ch. 3
[318.7(c)(4),
381.147(d)(4)]
Parts per million
(ppm) of restricted curing ingredients permitted in curing
solutions |
|
|
Ingredient |
Use |
|
|
Sodium or
Potassium Nitrite |
200
ppm/120 ppm in bacon/ highly toxic |
Sodium or
Potassium Nitrate |
700
ppm/ Not allowed in bacon curing |
Sodium Ascorbate
or Erythorbate |
547
ppm/550 ppm in bacon |
Ascorbic or
Erythorbic Acid |
469
ppm/ not allowed in bacon curing |
Sodium
PolyPhosphates |
5,000 ppm |
Glucono delta-lactone |
5,000 ppm |
|
Let's try to see if we can
use all this information with an actual example. Your friend has given you
a formula for making corned beef. His instructions say pump the meat with
the brine (see below) to a 10% pump. That means that if the meat weighs 10
pounds, you would pump it with enough brine so that the weight equaled 11
pounds. You've made some preliminary calculations to determine the
amount of salt and nitrite in the cure #1 that you are using and you've
added together all the weights of the salt and have converted all weights
into pounds. You now have the following information:
1½ gallons of pure water |
= 12.5 lb. |
Total amount of salt |
= 1.5 lb. |
Sodium phosphates |
= 0.4 lb. |
Glucose |
= 0.2 lb. |
Sodium erythorbate |
= 0.035 lb. |
Sodium nitrite |
= 0.025 lb. |
Total pounds of pickle |
= 14.66 pounds |
|
Question: How many PPM of Sodium nitrite are in the above pickling solution?
Calculations (RI=Restricted Ingredient):
PPM
= (RI times percent of pump as
a decimal times 1,000,000) /
Total weight of pickle.
PPM = (.025
nitrite X .10 X 1,000,000) / 14.66 pounds of pickle
PPM = 2500 / 14.66
PPM = 170
|
Therefore, since the
ingoing amount of nitrite is lower than 200 PPM limit by the USDA, it
seems like we are in compliance. But suppose you accidentally pump 12% of
the brine into the meat---are you still in compliance with regard to the
PPM of nitrite? Remember, that's, 200PPM or less! Let's see. The question now becomes
what Percent of Pump is too much to force into the meat? Re-arrange the
above formula to find the "Percent of Pump as a decimal".
Percent of Pump as a decimal
= (PPM times Total weight of
pickle) / (RI times 1,000,000)
Percent of Pump
(as a decimal) = (200
X 14.66) / (0.025 X 1,000,000)
Percent of Pump
(as a decimal) = (2932
/ 25000)
Percent of Pump
(as a decimal) =
0.1173
Converting to a percentage:
Percent of Pump (as a decimal) = 0.1173 x 100%
Percent of Pump = 11.73%
|
Therefore a 12% pump exceeds the maximum percent pump allowed (11.73%) and
you are out of compliance!
THE PURPOSE
OF SAUSAGE INGREDIENTS
SALT: Essential to cure meat! Salt
prevents the growth of some of the bacteria that are responsible for meat
spoilage by either inhibiting the growth of those bacteria directly or
removing enough water from the meat that they cannot survive. Salt also
helps in extraction of the soluble proteins which help in binding of
restructured meat products. Salt is used both in dry cure as well as
brining. Only food grade salt should be used. Some people wish to have
less sodium due to its relationship with hypertension and food grade
Potassium chloride has been used to substitute for sodium chloride up to a
40% level. The use in a ratio of 40 : 60 reduces sodium up to 34 – 35%.
In fresh sausage, salt is used as a flavoring agent; however, in cured or dry-cured it is used as a curing agent
as well as a flavoring agent. The proper amount is critical to a
proper cure. Different salts have different weights per unit volume. Table
salt is the heaviest; Kosher is the lightest! Make sure you using the
proper amount. In fresh sausages, general rule of thumb you can use is 1 to
1-1/2 teaspoons of canning or table salt to 1 pound of meat.
That will yield approximately 1% to 1.5% of salt in the product. In
making salami and other dry-cured product, the USDA guideline call for 2.5%
salt.
When selecting salt, make sure it has no additives in it. I generally use a
canning-type salt, which is pure Sodium chloride. Sea salt, which may be
tasty on your grilled steak, has a number of "impurities" which can interact
with other chemicals in your sausage formula. Not that it's bad, it would
just give a different taste in some cases. Kosher or flake salt will give
you less salt by volume than you need if you just use a measuring spoon.
To be accurate, no matter which salt you end up using,
you'll
always get the proper amount of
salt if you weigh it out on
a scale rather than use volume
measurements.
NITRITE AND NITRATE CURING SALTS:
Curing means to make
the meat product inhospitable to spoilage microorganisms and to flavor,
color, and tenderize the meat. Meat can be cured either by the
addition of salt alone or salt in combination with one or more ingredients
such as sodium nitrite, sugar, and spices. The preparation and use of curing
mixtures must be carefully planned and executed. Curing is generally done
under refrigeration (36°F / 2°C) and is essential when the formulation
requires meat to be processed at low temperatures (under 140°F /
60°C)….while smoking, for example. Cures come pre-mixed and ready to use;
they are usually added to the meat as an ingredient along with the other
seasonings.
"Curing salt" is available in
several formulations: Cure #1 (also called Prague Powder #1) which contains
pure salt and sodium nitrite; Cure #2 (also called Prague Powder #2) which
contains pure salt, sodium nitrite and sodium nitrate; and proprietary
formulations like Morton's Tender Quick. Careful attention must be paid to
the sausage formulation to be sure that the correct cure is used!
Prague Powder #1: sometimes called
"pink salt", Insta-Cure, Cure #1 or Modern Cure. This cure contains 6.25%
sodium nitrite mixed with salt. Use 1 level teaspoon of cure for 5 lb.
of meat. (2.5 grams of cure per kilogram of meat) Mix cure with cold
water. This cure is not interchangeable with Cure#2.
Prague Powder #2: sometimes called
Cure #2 or Insta-Cure #2 has 6.25% of sodium nitrite with 4% of sodium
nitrate mixed with salt and must be used with any products that do not
require cooking, smoking, or refrigeration. The sodium nitrate in this cure
slowly breaks down into sodium nitrite, then into nitric oxide over a long
period of time. Use 1 level teaspoon of cure for 5 lbs. of meat. (2.5 grams
of cure per kilogram of meat) Mix cure with cold water. This cure is
not interchangeable with Cure #1.
Morton® Tender Quick® mix
contains salt, the main preserving agent; sugar, both sodium nitrate (0.5%)
and sodium nitrite (0.5%). Since Morton cures are proprietary mixtures of
salt, sugar, nitrite and nitrate, and propylene glycol there is no way of
easily converting how much could be substituted in a formulation that uses
cure #2. Click on
Tender Quick to get more information.
- How They
Work:
Nitrite added to meat delays
development of the toxin that causes botulism and imparts the characteristic
cured meat flavor and color we often associate with ham, bacon, salami, etc.
Some cured meats such as bacon, country ham, salami, pepperoni, and
Westfalian ham, for example, use sodium nitrate because of the long aging
period involved in curing the meat. During this time, helpful bacteria
(certain strains of micrococcus, etc.) can ferment the nitrate and it is
slowly converted to nitrite which in turn is converted to nitric oxide. It
is the nitric oxide than combines with myoglobin protein in the meat that
imparts a pleasing red color in the cured product. To insure proper
fermentation, curing salts containing nitrite (or nitrite and nitrate) as
well as starter cultures of known bacteria are used in the production of
dry-cured meats.
Note: There is much concern over
the consumption of nitrate and nitrite by the general public. However, a
review of all scientific literature on nitrite by the National Research
Council of the National Academy of Sciences indicates that nitrite does not
directly act as a carcinogen in animals and that nitrate, which is converted
to nitrite in the human body, is neither carcinogenic nor mutagenic.
ACIDIFICATION
Reducing the pH level of sausage is part of a process of fermentation, which
is necessary to get a certain texture and is used to protect the product
from harmful microbiological activity.
The production of cured,
smoked, and/or dry-cured sausages requires a quick drop in acidity during
manufacture. This drop is needed because it inhibits the growth of
harmful bacteria and provides a suitable environment for the helpful
bacteria that will cause fermentation in the meat mixture.
The desired range of pH's is generally lower than 5. The lower pH level can
be accomplished by:
-
Bacterial
acidification accomplished by adding acid starter cultures (lactobacillus,
etc) or
-
Direct acidification, where food grade acids like lactic, acetic, or
citric acid are added directly to the food, or
-
Indirect chemical acidification where acidogens or acid releasing agents
like encapsulated acids, glucono-delta-lactone, etc. are added to the food
A
special point of concern for the direct chemical acidification methods is of
course the control of the pH: by adding these acids, one can easily create
pH gradients within the product which makes it difficult to control the
formation of the desired texture. Hence, a controlled acidification, for
example by using microbiological cultures, is a more suitable way to acidify
food products and to obtain the desired textures.
In my opinion,
the non-commercial sausage
maker it is safer to use starter cultures.
Microorganisms such as bacteria
have played an important role in the preservation of food products for
thousands of years. Preservation involves some form of lactic acid
fermentation in such foods as salami and summer sausages; pickles and
sauerkraut; cheese, sour cream, and yogurt. Of course for centuries it the
biochemistry of these foods were unknown and considered an art. It has now
been shown that a large group of microorganisms (lactic bacteria), normally
present in the foods, were responsible.
The group of lactic acid bacteria
(LAB) is very diverse and includes such genera as Lactobacillus,
Pediococcus and Streptococcus which produce lactic acid and
aromatic compounds giving dried sausage their characteristic flavor and
tang. Other bacterial species, belonging to the genera Micrococcus
and Staphylococcus for example, are used convert nitrate to nitrite
in sausage fermentation. Starter cultures are available as frozen or
freeze-dried cultures that may contain a single species of bacteria or
several species depending on the type of sausage being produced.
The fermentation step in dry cured
sausage production involves the action of LAB on the sugars added to ground
meat.
[See
the page on "Making Salami".] These organisms ferment the
sugars to lactic acid and the acid causes the meat to develop the
characteristic texture and flavor that is associated with the sausage.
In 1960, Merck & Co. and American Meat Institute were awarded the Food Technology
Industrial Achievement Award for demonstrating the efficacy using of
Pediococcus cerevisiae as a starter culture for controlled fermentation
of sausage.
Today starter cultures are added
routinely to commercial dry-cured sausage formulations to initiate and
control the formation of lactic acid and drop the pH (acidity measure) of
the sausage. In addition to giving the sausages a unique lactic acid
flavor, the rapid decline of pH inhibits the growth of spoilage bacteria and
pathogens.
With the current interest in
sausage making, a few types of starter cultures are available in small
quantities for the home sausage maker. [See the "Resources" page.]
Different LAB strains produce
various amounts of lactic acid by their nature. Commonly used commercial
starter cultures are either pure strains or various mixtures of
Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactobacillus curvatus, Pediococcus cerevisiae,
Pediococcus acidilacti, Staphylococcus camosus.
The search for a
starter cultures for use by the “home” sausage maker can be frustrating.
There are many health-food type companies offering LAB as health and
digestive aids---these CAN NOT be safely used as starter cultures for meat
products. The search for sources and choices in starter culture outside
the US, especially Europe and Canada is much easier. I have a couple of
sources linked on my resource page. Companies package starter cultures
in quantities sufficient for 100 kg. (500 lb.) of sausage; fortunately, the
cultures are generally freeze dried and can be kept frozen for a year or
two. One package (generally less that $15 USD) will last a long time!
I get a lot of email
from people asking: "What culture should I use to make a certain product?"
In order to give you a guide, I have excerpted a section from the Hansen
company Meat Manual below. Hansen is just one of several companies
world-wide that produce starters for the food industry. This material is
presented just for informational purposes.
Guideline material is excerpted from: Bactoferm™
Meat Manual
vol. I "Production
of fermented sausages with Chr. Hansen starter cultures", Edition
2003
Guidelines for choosing Chr. Hansen
starter cultures
5.1. Starter cultures at
Chr. Hansen
In the tables below the standard range of starter cultures offered by Chr.
Hansen for fermented dried sausages are compiled and categorized into
their primary target groups, taking into account the specific culture
needs within each group. Please refer to the sausage style definitions made
in paragraph 2.1. and to chapter 3 and 4 for details on the involved
microorganisms. One should be aware that even if many of the cultures
contain the same species, the strains are different and possess different
characteristics.
Most of the cultures within the product range contain blends of lactic acid
bacteria, staphylococci or Micrococcaceae spp., in this way simplifying the
procedure of applying more than one bacterium. Yeast strains are not
included in the standard range, but are available on request.
5.1.1. Starter cultures for traditional
fermented sausages
In the production of traditional Southern European style sausages and
traditional North European technologies, the fermentation profile must have
a short lag phase in order to ensure the growth of the added starter culture
at the expense of the background flora. Additionally, the acidification
profile must be rather flat not going below pH 4.8-5.0 at any time. This
will ensure that the applied staphylococci maintain their activity over a
longer period of time; foremost their nitrate reductase and flavor-forming
activities. The cultures specified below are specifically selected for
traditional fermentation profiles applying fermentation temperatures not
higher than 24ºC (75ºF).
In general, T-SL and T-SC-150 result in a faster acidification rate than the
other traditional cultures, but this is much dependent on the processing
procedure. The lactic acid bacteria in T-D-66 have a very high salt
tolerance and they are recommended for sausages with high fat content.
Culture name |
Bacteria included |
Characteristics |
T-RM-53 |
Lactobacillus sakei Staphylococcus carnosus
|
Aromatic cultures with mild acidification
|
T-SP |
Pediococcus pentosaceus Staphylococcus carnosus
|
T-SPX |
Pediococcus pentosaceus Staphylococcus xylosus
|
T-D-66 |
Lactobacillus plantarum Staphylococcus carnosus
|
Aromatic cultures with intermediate acidification |
T-SC-150 |
Lactobacillus sakei Staphylococcus carnosus
|
T-SL |
Lactobacillus pentosus Staphylococcus carnosus
|
5.1.2. Starter cultures for
fast fermented sausages
In the production of North European and US style sausages the
fermentation profile must have a very short lag phase in order to rapidly
on-set fermentation and exhibit a fast drop in pH to below 5.3 within 30
hours as a minimum. This ensures an efficient inhibition of background flora
and an early on-set of fast drying. Total production time is typically less
than 2 weeks.
Staphylococci and Micrococcaceae spp. are not added to all
cultures, so in order to enhance color formation staphylococci or
Micrococcaceae spp. must be added on the side (see paragraph 5.1.3.). This
may be unnecessary in the US style process (fermentation temperatures
35-45ºC/100-115ºF, very fast pH-drop, very low final pH < 4.8) since
staphylococci generally do not survive the fast pH-lowering. In some
instances, however, the addition of staphylococci or Micrococcaceae spp. has
proven beneficial for color stability in the US style process for meat snack
sticks.
The
Pediococcus
in F-1 and LP has lower salt tolerance than the other fast
fermenting strains and F-1 and LP are therefore not recommended for sausages
with very high salt-in-water levels (>6%) and high fat contents.
Culture name |
Bacteria included |
Characteristics |
F-RM-52 |
Lactobacillus sakei Staphylococcus carnosus
|
Fast cultures targeted for fermentation temperatures
22-32ºC (70-90ºF) |
F-RM-7 |
Lactobacillus sakei Staphylococcus xylosus
Staphylococcus carnosus |
F-SC-111 |
Lactobacillus sakei Staphylococcus carnosus |
F-1 |
Pediococcus pentosaceus Staphylococcus xylosus |
LP |
Pediococcus pentosaceus |
LL-1 |
Lactobacillus curvatus |
CSL |
Lactobacillus curvatus
Micrococcaceae spp. |
LL-2 |
Lactobacillus curvatus |
F-2 |
Lactobacillus farciminis Staphylococcus carnosus
Staphylococcus xylosus |
LHP |
Pediococcus acidilactici Pediococcus pentosaceus
|
Extra fast cultures targeted for fermentation
temperatures 26-38ºC (80-100ºF) |
CSB |
Pediococcus acidilactici
Micrococcaceae spp. |
Extra fast cultures targeted for fermentation
temperatures 30-45ºC (90-115ºF) |
F-PA |
Pediococcus acidilactici |
HPS |
Pediococcus acidilactici |
Very
fast culture targeted for fermentation temperatures
32-45ºC (90-115ºF) |
5.1.3. Starter cultures for
enhancing
flavor
and
nitrate
reduction
Sausages fermented with a chemical acidifier such as GDL or
encapsulated acid (see paragraph 2.2.1.) instead of lactic acid bacteria
generally require added staphylococci or Micrococcaceae spp. to obtain
acceptable flavor and color, see table below. In general, those single
strain cultures are recommended in all sausage products in need of extra
flavor or nitrate reductase activity. S. carnosus is more salt tolerant than
S. xylosus and convey a more intense flavor in fast fermented products.
Culture name
|
Bacteria included
|
Characteristics |
S-B-61 |
Staphylococcus
carnosus |
Flavor and color
enhancing cultures |
S-SX |
Staphylococcus
xylosus |
CS |
Micrococcaceae spp. |
5.1.4. Starter cultures for
surface coverage
South European style sausages covered with mold on the
surface will profit from being inoculated with a standardized culture, thus
preventing mycotoxin formation by contaminating molds. Additionally, the
on-set of mold growth will be faster and a more uniform coverage will be
obtained.
The penicillin tabulated below were selected to have toxin
free growth features and different appearances under the same conditions.
M-EK-4 grows better at lower temperature and humidity and gives a marbled
appearance. M-EK-6 is denser and develops a more fluffy coverage. M-EK-72
gives a strong growth and high and fluffy coverage when high humidity and
temperature is available.
Culture name |
Bacteria included |
Characteristics |
M-EK-72 |
Penicillium nalgiovense |
White mold cultures for surface treatment
|
Mold - 600
(M-EK-4) |
Penicillium nalgiovense |
M-EK-6 |
Penicillium nalgiovense |
5.1.5. Starter cultures for
bio-protection
If the contaminating level of
Listeria monocytogenes
in the fresh sausage mince is rather high, the use of a
bio-protective culture may be necessary in order to remove
Listeria
from the final product. F-LC is a patented culture blend
capable of acidification as well as preventing growth of
Listeria. The
culture works in a wide temperature range. Low fermentation temperature (<
25ºC / 80ºF) results in a traditional acidification profile whereas high
fermentation temperature (35-45ºC /95-115ºF) gives a US style product.
Culture name |
Bacteria included |
Characteristics
|
F-LC |
Staphylococcus
xylosus |
Culture for
acidification and prevention of Listeria |
Pediococcus
acidilactici |
Lactobacillus
curvatus |
B-LC-007 |
Pediococcus acidilactici
Staphylococcus carnosus
Staphylococcus xylosus
Lactobacillus sakei
Pediococcus pentosaceus |
For production of traditional
fermented sausage with a short fermentation time. |
Source:
Bactoferm™
Meat Manual
vol. I "Production
of fermented sausages with Chr. Hansen starter cultures", Edition
2003-(additions made in 2013)
|
CHEMICAL
ACIDULANTS:
Citric Acid
Citric acid is a naturally
occurring acid that can be added to ground meat which has a number of
effects depending upon its concentration. For example, at concentrations of
0.075% it acts as an antioxidant (oxygen absorber) and is used to preserve
the color of fresh sausages. At a concentration of 0.75% (ten times
more) it will lower the pH of a meat paste. This can cause a problem
for the sausage maker, however. If the pH is lowered to quickly, the
proteins will not bind and firm up the sausage. When this occurs, the
texture of the sausage will be coarse and crumbly. To prevent the premature
lowering of pH, the citric acid used in sausage making is encapsulated--that
is, coated with a hydrogenated vegetable oil which will melt off and release
the citric acid at about 135oF allowing the proteins to react with
each other before the acid is released.
When the sausage maker wants
that fermented "tang" in a cooked or smoked product, but wants to avoid
processing under special conditions of temperature and humidity required for
bacterial fermentation, the appropriate amount to add to a product is 7.5
grams of encapsulated citric acid for every Kilogram meat. When the sausage
maker wants to preserve the color of the fresh sausage, the appropriate
amount to add to a product is 0.75 grams of encapsulated citric acid for
every Kilogram meat. (Note the decimal point!)
The general way that it is used
is to add the acid at the end of the mixing process. At this time the
product can be held for a short period of time at room temperature or sent
directly to the smoker-cooker. There are several cautions to remember: (1)
Add it at the end of the processing cycle to prevent rupture the capsules
during the mixing, (2) Do not regrind the meat paste after adding the acid,
and (3) Do not refrigerate the product before cooking or smoking.
Glucono-delta-Lactone (GDL) is a carbohydrate that reacts with
water and slowly breaks down into gluconic acid when it comes in contact
with the water in sausage mixture. By using GDL, the pH is lowered gradually
in the sausage emulsion or mass without going through the fermentation
process. This will aid in retarding the development of pathogens and
spoilage causing micro-organisms that may be present in the meat mixture.
This slow acidification process has a minimal effect on flavor as it lowers
the overall pH of the sausage mixture without imparting sourness, since is a
"sweet" carbohydrate. It decomposes at about 153°C
and is stable at ambient temperatures and humidity. The reversibility
between gluconic acid and GDL exhibits the properties of the acid with a
gradual but continuous decrease in pH. During the conversion of GDL into
gluconic acid in the meat paste, its taste characteristics change from sweet
to slightly acidic. It is GDL’s slow rate of acidification and mild taste
characteristics that set it apart from other acidulants. GDL reaches its
lowest pH after approximately 40-60 minutes or more, depending on the
concentration of GDL and the temperature of the meat. GDL is often used to
replace traditional fermentation processes of some sausages, especially in
commercial manufacture, because fewer production steps and controls are
necessary. The maximum amount of GDL should be kept to 8 ounces per 100
pounds of ground meat (for the small producer, use at the rate of 5 grams
per kilogram).
Its use by the home sausage maker should be guided by the person's depth of
understanding of food chemistry and bacterial spoilage. The FDA position regarding
the safety of GDL is that it is generally regarded as a safe additive; see
the following governmental document:
21
CFR Ch. I §184.1318. Since GDL is a carbohydrate, it may
be used as a carbon source for naturally-occurring bacteria in the meat
which could then have a detrimental effect on taste. This can
sometimes be corrected by adding flavor-enhancing bacterial cultures.
SEASONINGS FOR SAUSAGES
Seasonings are used in sausage
production to contribute to the flavor of the blended meats. Spicing should
be done carefully in order to control the seasoning but not overpower the
meat flavor of the sausage. In addition to seasoning, some spices seem
to have bacteriostatic and antioxidant properties. Garlic and nutmeg,
for example, have been shown to have such properties. The chemical and
nutritional components of spices can be accessed on the
USDA Nutritional Database.
Spices come from the bark
(cinnamon), root (ginger, onion, garlic), flower buds (cloves,
saffron), seeds (yellow mustard, coriander, anise), or the fruit
(juniper berry, black pepper, allspice, paprika, chili pepper) of tropical
plants and trees.
Herbs are leaves of low-growing shrubs.
Examples are parsley, chives, marjoram, thyme, basil, dill, oregano,
rosemary, savory, sage and tarragon. These can be used fresh or dried.
[Note: Generally substitute half the amount of dried herbs for fresh herbs.]
Seasonings, dehydrated
vegetable include
onion, garlic, sweet peppers, hot peppers, mints, and freeze-dried chives
and shallots.
Condiments are usually a combination of
herbs and spices blended in a liquid form. Examples are prepared mustard,
catsup, Worcestershire sauce, hot or pepper sauces, and many of the
specialty vinegars.
Seasoning blends
are mixtures of spices and herbs.
Check spice companies, like Penzey's or Sutton’s Bay for exact mixtures.
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The
art of using herbs and spices is learning how much to add and how to combine
flavors. In developing your sausage recipes use strong, pungent spices such
as red pepper in small amounts. More delicate seasoning can be used in
greater amounts without ruining the final product. Although the herbs or
spices should enhance and not overpower the flavor of the meats used,
cultural preferences will influence your decision. Be Creative! Learn to
cook with tastes rather than with recipes. Be both a scientist and an artist
as you learn to use seasonings. Start with several herbs and spices,
learning to know the flavoring and how it complements different meats. Each
seasoning has a variety of properties not just a taste property but warm or
cooling property to it. Strive to make the best use cooling spices as
well as warming spices, bland spices as well as pungent spices, sweet spices
as well as hot spices. Flavor is a combination of two sensory perceptions:
taste and odor or aroma. The first part is perceived by the taste buds and
other sensory tissues on the tongue. It is this area which perceives
non-volatile stimuli such as: salt, sweet, acid (sour) and bitter. Secondly
one's sense of smell, or odor, is one's reaction to the stimulus of volatile
components found in the spice or herb.
Start with
a tested recipe. After it has been prepared, decide if more or less
seasoning is needed for the next time. Spice companies recommend about 1/4
teaspoon (a pinch) of spice per pound of meat creating recipes. Only use 1/8
teaspoon of stronger seasonings such as red pepper and garlic. Remember, it
is easier to add more than to try to compensate for too much. More than one
herb or spice can be used in a recipe. When creating a recipe, start by
using only one or two choices. As you gain experience with herbs and spices,
taste will tell if others might be added.
ADDITIVES OTHER THAN SEASONINGS
SUGARS:
The addition of sugar is common
to many sausages. Its use depends upon the type of sausage being made. Most
sugars except sorbitol enhance the browning of sausage during cooking. It is
often added to help mask the taste of salt used in the curing process and it
can also be used as a source of food the lactic acid producing bacteria
needed for proper fermentation of dry and semi-dry sausages. Glucose is
essential in fermented sausages as a substrate for growth of fermenting
bacteria. Depending on the type of sausage as little as 0.5% sugar is added;
some processed meats can contain as much a 2% sugar. Sugar is available in
several forms. Some examples of sugars or sugar derivatives are glucose (or
dextrose), maple syrup, corn syrup, corn syrup solids, sucrose, honey, and
sorbitol.
PHOSPHATES: Phosphates are used to
increase water holding capacity of meat products and have an antioxidant
effect. They also help reduce rancidity as well as improve the color
stability and flavor. The USDA has approved Sodium tripolyphosphate,
Sodium hexametaphosphate, Sodium acid pyrophosphate, Sodium pyrophosphate ,
Monosodium phosphate and Disodium phosphate for use in curing. The use
of these chemicals, however, is restricted to an amount which will result in
not more than 0.5 percent phosphate from any source in the finished
product. (meat contains 0.1% phosphate)
ASCORBATE AND ERYTHORBATE: These chemicals are
classed as anti-oxidants, i.e. they combine with free oxygen that
would hasten spoilage. Sodium erythorbate or ascorbate can also create
conditions in meat which speed up the rate of conversion of nitrite to
nitric oxide which is important for stabilizing the meat color as well as
inhibiting the formation of nitrosamines in cured products.
MONOSODIUM GLUTAMATE:
MSG is used as a
flavor enhancer in sausage formulations. It is a salt of glutamic acid, an
amino acid which, together with other amino acids, forms proteins in living
tissues. Therefore glutamate is naturally contained in almost all food
products such as meat, fish, vegetables, milk, etc. Only a small percentage
of the daily eaten glutamate comes from added glutamate. The biggest part
comes from proteins. Food products which naturally contain lots of free
glutamate (e.g. tomatoes, cheese, mushrooms, etc.) are used in many food
recipes because of their flavor enhancing properties. The human tongue can
sense sweet, salty, sour and bitter flavors; Monosodium Glutamate (MSG)
imparts a fifth flavor which is called UMAMI. (Translated, it means
"delicacy"). This flavor plays an important role in many sausage products.
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has examined all existing
reports on supposedly allergic reactions caused by MSG and they find that
there is no connection between glutamate content in food products and the
appearance of symptoms such as numbness of neck and back.
MEAT BINDERS:
A variety of
substances are used as binders in sausage making. Some of the binders in use
are starch, soy protein concentrate, and non fat dried skim milk powder.
They are added for a number of reasons, depending on the type of sausage
being made. They are used to improve flavor, stability, moisture retention
or slicing characteristics. Commercially, the calcium-reduced form of
skim milk powder is often used as calcium is said to interfere with protein
solubility. Soy protein concentrate available as coarse granules, powder or
grits and is used in emulsion type sausages. The content of meat binder in a
sausage product is regulated by the Federal Meat Inspection Service and the
amounts vary with the type of sausage or loaf being produced For example,
any sausage product containing more than 2% soy protein must be labeled as
“imitation” sausage.
TRANSGLUTAMINASE ("Meat Glue") An enzymatic meat binder.
This is a naturally occuring enzyme that causes the proteins (well, certain
protein amino acids) in muscles to cross-link---in layman's terms, stick
together by a chemical reaction. Basically it restructures the meat muscle
into a single unit! For example, you can get two pork tenderloins (that
taper) , sprinkle some enzyme, and line them up to form an uniform roll!
It's not a quick reaction, but takes at least 6 hours (or better up to 24
hours) to completely bond and it should be done under refrigeration. As with
many things scientific, the general public is suspicious of it's effects on
our health. I suggest you do some research on your own from reliable
sources and not just anyone who claims they are knowledgeable about pure
foods.
I have more information
on my TIPS page.
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CASINGS
Natural Casings:
Natural hog, sheep or beef
casings are edible and allow for good moisture retention when making
sausage. They are best stored under refrigeration; do not freeze. Soften
them before use by soaking in fresh warm water for one hour; then flush
casings by allowing water to run through them.
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Sheep Casings: They are
smaller and more tender when cooked than hog casings.
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Hog Casings: They can be
used for fresh, cured, smoked, and dried sausage. Most commonly used are the
32 mm size and 35 mm size casings.
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Beef casings: the largest
size casing; the three commonly used are:
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Beef Rounds: Slightly
curved casing used in making knackwurst & ring bologna. Usually tied on one
end and about 15 inches long.
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Beef Middles: The
“middle” part of the beef intestine about 2 ½ inches when stuffed; good for
salami, summer sausage, etc. A hank is about 50 feet long!
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Beef Bungs: About 4 to 4
½ inches in diameter. Can be used for stuffing coppa and large
bologna; this casing hold about 10 pounds of meat.
Fibrous Casings:
These casings are non-edible and
consist of continuous tube paper which is then impregnated with cellulose.
They need to be soaked about 30 minutes in warm water before being used.
They do not need to be refrigerated. These casing come in a variety of sizes
from small salami to large bologna.
Collagen Casings:
These casings are either edible
or non-edible (depending on the thickness). They are made of collagen (skin
protein) that has been processed and reformed into continuous tube. Those
made for fresh sausage are edible, very tender and stuffed dry (without
soaking); the thicker, flat collagen casings (3 ½ - 4 inches in diameter)
and are soaked for about 30 minutes in warm water before use. They are used
for making large sausage, salami, bologna etc. and are not edible.
Plastic Casings:
These casings are non-edible and are
used in making sausages that are generally cooked in water. The
plastic is non-permeable to the water and the cooked juices remain in the
sausage. Headcheese is an example of a sausage using this casing
Page last edited on August 6, 2019
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